2008 Dona Paula Malbec/Shiraz Estate, Mendoza, Argentina

86               Drink 2012               $12, QPR index - 7.2

The 2008 Shiraz/Cabernet Estate is a strong effort.  With air, aromatic notions of blackberry pie, wild fennel, and black pepper emerge and preface a medium-bodied palate rife with black licorice and leather flavors, while copious quantities of plum and blackberry fruit provide Malbec-specific typicity.  Here the  alcohol is already creeping up on the finish, suggesting that an already precarious sense balance should be enjoyed much sooner than later.

User-friendly and consistently reliable wines are the norm at Dona Paula.  David Bonomi heads the winemaking duties here, and has shown a deft ability to turn out rich, compelling, and generally well-balanced wines at accessible prices.  The Estate wines represent particularly outstanding value, and should not be overlooked.

2010 Burgans Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain

88               Drink 2012              $12, QPR index - 7.3

Burgans has crafted a distinctive, nearly outstanding Albarino bottling in 2010.  Even better, it represents exceptional value.  A lifted bouquet integrates bananas, peach skin, and pineapples, which lead to a palate marked by racy acidity, a vibrant yet pliant texture, uncharacteristic opulence for this variety, and a mouthwatering, floral finish.  Drink it over the next year.

2005 La Perla del Priorat, "Noster," Priorat, Spain

90               Drink now-2015               $20, QPR index - 4.5

The 2005 version opens with alluring, sweetly ripe aromas of blueberries as well as black plums and other darker fruits, while notions of coffee and exotic spices emerge with air.  The palate shows a gorgeous, focusing vein of acidity, excellent balance, and a mineral finish.  Lavishly flavored, full-bodied, and possessed of refined, satiny tannins, this Priorat will be a revelation for readers looking for heady, rich, Chateauneuf du Pape styled wines at more accessible prices.

2007 Glaetzer, "Wallace," Barossa Valley, Australia

88               Drink now-2013               $24, QPR index - 3.7

The deep purple-colored 2007 "Wallace" is a blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Grenache hailing from the Ebenezer sector at the northern end of the Barossa Valley.  In the glass, the 2007 wafts aromatic notions of candied and carmelized blacker fruits as well as touches of chimney soot and decadent flowers, which lead to a voluminous palate of more sweet dark fruit along with additional dimensions of herbs and chocolate.  The finish shows a certain ornery astringency, only a minor distraction from an otherwise excellent effort.

Broadbent Port Auction Lot 1, Portugal

86               Drink n/a               $28, QPR index - 3.1

The Auction Lot 1 registers promising aromas of carmel, black currants, marker ink, and vanilla extract.  It has a rounded entry, a medium-full bodied mouthfeel, some alcoholic heat on the midpalate, and a moderately long finish streaked with blackberries and cocoa powder.  Well-composed, medium-sweet, and reasonably balanced, this is tasty though unremarkable and in need of greater depth and complexity.

MV St. Cosme Little James Basket Press Rouge, Southern France

87               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

This is the 2011 bottling (for more on which see below).  The characteristically black raspberry and concord grape scented Basket Press Rouge is quite pretty this year.  The palate echoes the wine's bouquet though with a distinctively peppery edge, plenty of freshness, and an herbal/floral pungency that is faintly reminiscent of Campari.  Seamless, downright delicious, and eminently drinkable, this would translate effortlessly from a cocktail hour to the dinner table.  Perhaps the best value in Louis Barruol's portfolio, which is saying something.

The multi-vintage (MV) Basket Press Rouge is rendered via the "solera" system.  This practice stipulates that the wine released in a particular year is composed of 50% the previous year's fruit (here 2010), while the difference consists of some quantity of juice from each vintage dating back to 1999.  A pure Grenache cuvee fermented and aged exclusively in tank, proprietor Louis Barruol has conceived a wine that memorably welds the evolved, earthier, and dry-fruited personalities of older vintages with the strapping, boisterous and sweetly ripe qualities of the current one.  In a sense the results are head scratching, as I simply can't come close to understanding how prices for this label remain so inexpensive.

Various Tasting Notes, Mostly Austria

Thanks to Kris Nelson of Vermont Wine Merchants for another revealing and thoughtfully constructed tasting.  I must say that one-on-one styled, intimately set tastings continue to be my preferred modus operandi (especially with a rep I have come to trust), if only because the physical space afforded and abscence of a bullishly commercial atmosphere gels more with my view of wine as a beverage of pleasure as opposed to a mere consumer commodity.

I feel compelled to simply express how impressed I continue to be with the general direction of Austria's wine culture.  There are still too many insipid, overcropped and uninspiring wines to be found, but they seem to be showing up less frequently in the marketplace.  As the follow notes suggest, there are a growing number of growers and producers whose insistence on naturally made and, increasingly, estate-bottled wines augur well for their future.  While the Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal remain the most consistent areas for beautifully rendered and, indeed world class wines (mostly whites), there are a bevy of superb wines to be found in the vast, geologically heterogeneous tracts of land to the southeast.  

Of these regions, Carnuntum seems forwardly placed to stamp itself as the epicenter of quality oriented reds.  The native grapes Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch thrive in this easterly region, and international varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are being planted with greater frequency, with a handful of producers making convincing wines with still attractive price tags.  The best producers in Carnuntum, whether working with varietal wines or blends, seem to capture a sense of concentration and distinctiveness wedded to understated and polished structures that, in terms of consistency of execution, seem to me to elude the reds of Austria's other wine regions.

A number of the wines in this report are imported by Michael Skurnik, with many selections made by one of his associates, Terry Thiese.  Especially for those lacking experience with Austrian wines (or any imported wines for that matter) it would be difficult to overstate the crucial role of the importer.  In fact, I would go as far as stating that for the consumer a good importer is as valuable a piece of information as one can find on a wine label.  I may risk sounding like a broken record, but importers who proudly represent the wines of organic/biodynamic estates and producers intent on bottling, except in rare circumstances, without fining or filtration are most worthy of consumer attention.  Names like Michael Skurnik and Kermit Lynch on the back of a wine label will never assure the consumer of a profoundly complex and ageworthy wine, but they are rarely another manifestation of the inexpressive and distressingly denuded wine whose only "merit" is that it possesses "no hard edges."  Only that those days were entirely in the past!

For the convenience of readers, wines are listed by points and in descending order.  I am avoiding adding notes on producers for reasons of space.  Wines scored below 85 are scored but not afforded tasting commentaries.  All are ready to drink unless otherwise noted.

Austria

92 - 2009 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner "Renner," Kamptal

The 2009 "Renner," hails from the famous Gaisberg vineyard located on the river Kamp, a northern tributary of the Danube.  A perfumy bouquet offers lemon meringue, flowers, sweet spices and Gruner's telltale green bean/herbal pungency, while the palate captures a lean, driven, powerful character that is rare in this early-ripening vintage.  Today this comes across as perhaps a touch young, but its concentration, seamlessness and length suggest at least half a dozen years of outstanding drinkability. 

90 - 2009 Ludwig Hiedler Gruner Veltliner "Loss," Kamptal

The 2009 Gruner Veltlines "Loss" is grown entirely on parcels with a high occurrence of Loess, a yellowish, ashy soil created by receding glaciers during the last ice age.  This soil drains expressly and efficiently, forcing wines to pursue deep root structures to assure themselves of a ready water supply.  Vivid aromatics redolent of candied lemons, flat Sprite and dried apricots lead to a surprisingly tropical, almost honeyed character on the palate, with a very sexy underlying exoticness.  There is a wonderful richness here, and a well-mannered finish.

89+ - 2010 Leth Gruner Veltliner "Steinagrund," Traisental

Hailing from Loess-bedecked and rocky terrain of the Traisental region south of the Wachau, the 2010 Leth "Steinagrund," ("stony soil") leads with notes of ripe pears, white pepper and flowers.  I like the density of flavors allied to the prominent acidity that characterizes so many 2010s, lending the wine a slender attractiveness.

89+ - 2008 Glatzer Blaufrankisch, Carnuntum

I am ecstatic to have discover the wines of Walter Glatzer, an organic producer stationed in Carnuntum (for more on which, see above).  His 2008 Blaufrankisch is scented like a well-endowed Sonoma County Syrah, with beautifully sculpted aromas of roasted herbs, cherry jam and game that impress for their length and ripeness, while an expressive detail of dark chocolate emerges on the finish.  Firmly structured and beautifully rendered.

88 - 2007 Glatzer Zweigelt Riedencuvee, Carnuntum  

More supply textured is the 2007 Zweigelt Reidencuvee, a pleasure-bent offering that houses flavors of worn leather, frying bacon, smoky raspberries within a lip-smacking, dares-you-not-to-take-another-sip sort of style.  Nice background details for the more prominent and eminently enjoyable dark cherry and raspberry character.   

87 - 2010 Rotes Haus Amnussberg Gemischter Satz Classic, Vienna 

This belongs to a class of wines called "Gemischter Satz."  Such labeling denotes a wine produced from a number of white grape varieties grown in the same vineyard and harvested on the same day.  No grape-specific differentiation is permitted during sorting or fermentation in this very traditional style of winemaking.  Of the two tasted here, I preferred the 2010 Rotes Haus Amnussberg Weiner Classic for its greater depth of flavor, including a distinctive hazelnut edge to the lemon starburst flavors that detonate on the palate.  A touch of residual sugar is briskly housed in this piquant white that harbors a healthy acidity and an elegant, charming demeanor.

85 - 2010 Weingut Christ Gemischter Satz,Vienna 

Also enjoyable is this offering from Weingut Christ, a wine laced with pretty notes of white peaches, flowers, melon and cinnamon as well as nice aromatic persistence.  Only a surprisingly short finish proves penalizing.

85 - 2009 Heidi Schrock Weinbauerin in Rust Weissburgunder, Neusiedlersee 

I am surprised I eventually succumbed to the virtues of this wine considering its initial blue cheese and aging produce-inflecked bouquet.  Most of those odd details blew off with air, giving way to fresh, even vibrant flavors that evoke orange and orange rind and a touch of tropical fruit.  I'm not always convinced about the qualities of Weissburgunder, but this delicious effort leaves me smiling.

85 - 2009 Weingut Christ Blauer Zweigelt Bisamberg, Vienna 

The 2009 conveys rich, almost candied aromas that seem a bit artificial to me.  There is no problem with drinkability here, although the monolithic profile and lack of genuine midpalate concentration disappoint.  After all that, the finish does its best to redeem things, revealing a balsamic, earthy edge.  I'd love to revisit this slightly perplexing Zweigelt in the near future.

81 - 2010 Martinshof Gruner Veltliner, Vienna

Other Various Tasting Notes

88 - 2008 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France

The 2008 Pinot Blanc flows with liquid dandelions, lemons and a hint of bitter greens.  A very distinctive and well-crafted Pinot Blanc, with a razor sharp acidity to keep everything in focus.  Impressive.

87+ - 2009 Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand 

The 2009 Mount Difficulty is a pleasant if somewhat uninspiring Pinot Noir, rendered in a style that favors purity and cleanliness of action that, to this taster, come at the expense of complexity and individuality.  Exhibits a noteworthy amplitude and fresh berry character on the palate, but remains adamantly one dimensional even with extended time in the glass.

87 - 2007 Ramsay Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, California 

An excellent value in North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon is the sweetly fruited 2007 Ramsay, which belies its outstanding vintage in its supple, silky tannins, while saturating the palate with fennel bulb, herbs, and sweet dark fruit tones.  This is nicely extracted, and represent outstanding value.  Delicious.

85 - 2009 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, California 

Value-oriented readers might also seek out the 2009 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, crafted in a fresh, early drinking style that oozes mint, eucalyptus, and a slight notion of parched soil.  Its modest capabilities are betrayed on the back end, which becomes medicinal and astringent.  Still, there is a good deal to like at this price.

85 - 2010 Sean Minor Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California

The 2010 seems just a touch short on varietal character and vigor, as its cherry fruit leans closer to fruit roll up than fresh cherries, although healthy acid levels and pleasantly firm sense of structure must be counted as virtues.  I can't believe I'm saying this considering that the Sean Minor wines are almost always intended for immediate consumption, but a year or eighteen months in bottle may help shed some primary fruit, while lending greater polish to the tannins.  

83 - 2009 Stickybeak Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California

82 - 2006 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France

2009 Milbrandt Vineyards Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, Washington

87               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

The infectiously drinkable 2009 Pinot Gris is a terrific antidote for palates jaded with innocuous styles of Pinot Gris.  It exhibits flavors of chive and almond-infused butter as well as a whiff of tropical fruits in a youthfully generous, lively style.  A light spritz helps add some bite and focus on the back end, making this an eminently quaffable and delicious value-priced white perfect for cocktailing or an hors d'oeuvres hour, especially when served with richly textured foods.

2007 Domaine des Entrefaux, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France

90               Drink now-2016               $20, QPR index - 4.5

The expressive 2007 carries a mere 12.5% alchohol and evokes in its bouquet notions of black raspberries, subtle oak, and licorice together with details of blueberries and Provencal herbs that emerge with coaxing.  Its medium body, silken texture, and noteable purity and length are wrapped in a package of undeniable elegance and finesse.  I like the 2007 as much as the decidedly more firm and muscular 2005, and believe its intrinsically high sense of equilibrium should allow it to effortlessly reach its eighth or perhaps even tenth birthday.

2008 Xabec, Monstant, Spain

93               Drink now-2020               $15, QPR index - 6.2

The impressively endowed 2008 Xabec, a blend of equal parts Carignan and Garnacha, exhibits rich, spicy aromatics, a voluptuous texture, extraordinary opulence, and a palate profile of sweet dark fruit, forest floor, sweet spices, and well integrated oak.  Already showing excellent integration of its component parts, this beautifully crafted blend is approachable now, though its impeccable balance, commanding sense of structure, and incipient complexity augurs well for those with patience.  This amounts to an intelligent marriage of informed winemaking and gloriously opulent, beautifully ripe fruit.

2007 Castro Ventosa Mencia, "El Castro de Valtuille," Bierzo, Spain

89               Drink now-2014               $15, QPR index - 6.0

Sourced from 20-40 year old vines from a number of vineyards in and around the town of Ventosa de Abajo with sandy/quartize/slatey soils, the 2007 Mencia Joven possesses a sweet perfume of dried cherries, strawberry starburst, balsamic, and underpinnings that evoke blueberry and fish sauce.  Its attack is marked by admirable focus, a medium body, inviting and integrated tannins, a concentrated midpalate, no hard edges, and a short-moderate finish.  This bottling captures the sexy, sensuous side of Mencia that is often missed in the low acid, pillowy, fleshed-out expressions of the grape that typically emanate from Bierzo and nearly Ribera Sacra.

2008 Mount Eden Chardonnay Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

94               Drink 2013-2020+               $50, QPR index - 1.9

Another installment in an unbroken string of utterly profound estate grown Chardonnay is the 2008, the most unctuously textured, extracted and, at three years of age, youthful and unevolved Chardonnay I have ever tasted from Jeff Patterson.  A nose of carmelized peaches and green apples as well as minerals, buttered toast and a touch of hazelnuts leads to an oily, immensely concentrated and powerful mouthful of white currants and buttered popcorn with, and this is amazing considering the sheer opulence here, a heavy dosage of underlying minerality.  It will reward two more years of cellaring, and should easily provide a plateau of optimal drinking until 2020.  While not as youthfully generous as, say, the 2005 or the 2007, the 2008 will have its day and will ultimately be seen as one of the great vintages of the Estate Chardonnay. 

2009 Embocadero Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain

90               Drink now-2014+               $15, QPR index - 6.0

The 2009 Tempranillo surrenders aromatic notions of parched soil, ripe red currants, black cherries and broccoli crowns, with a palate that exues lush and pure Tempranillo, with lightly spiced red fruits, a full-bodied opulence, firm tannins, and a mouthwatering currant tartness that lingers persistently through the finish.  Drink this voluminous, textured, delicious, exceptional value over the next three years if not longer.

2008 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

93               Drink 2013-2025               $35, QPR index - 2.7

The 2008 flows with the essence of fresh ripe blackberries coated with brown sugar.  This deeply colored, exceptionally dense and ripe high-altitude Cabernet is a winemaking tour de force, though it is still very primary at this stage and needs to shed a little baby fat as well.  Even now the expansive, multidimensional texture and glossy tannic profile are wonderfully ingratiating.  Very promising.  

2006 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley, France

91               Drink now-2016+               $100, QPR index - 0.9              

The ruby colored 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape leads with a charming bouquet that evokes cherries simmered in liquor, lavender, nori, and sweet spices.  On the palate it reveals extravagant richness and low acidity as well as an expansive mouthfeel that fans out toward the midpalate and reveals even greater concentration and broad-shouldered opulence on the finish.  With decanting, this lush, concentrated wine seems to be already near its peak.

2006 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, Napa Valley, California

95+               Drink 2013-2033               $60, QPR index - 3.5

You'll have to pick your jaw off the floor, but the 2006 seamlessly weds power and elegance, with a heady, superlative bouquet redolent of sweet black currants and cedar along with confectionary notes that recall chocolate shavings and carmel.  Unctuously textured, extraordinarily powerful and authoritatively flavored, this is another supremely convincing wine in a long line of pure, precise, driven Cabernets with a long track record for improving in bottle.  Further, there is ample acidity to ensure that the richness remains on track as the midpalate builds toward a monumental, muscular finish.  This should prove to be even longer lived than the awesome 2005.

2008 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, Argentina

88               Drink now-2012               $22, QPR index - 4.0

The 2008 is characteristically high in extract and richness and low in acidity, displaying a fruit-filled bouquet of ripe plums, figs, chocolate and earthy blackcurrants.  On the palate it exhibits a full-bodied opulence, decadent texture and mouthfeel within a warm, voluminous, open personality.

The Clos de los Siete is a project headed by the legendary Michel Rolland, originally of Bordeaux fame and now, of course, renowned the world over for his ability to craft bold, rich wines typically possessed of sweet tannin and user-friendly character.  Grapes for the Clos de los Siete are culled from seven high-elevation estate vineyards south of Mendoza averaging around 3,000 feet above sea level.  Regardless of vintage, the wines show a great deal of concentration and extraction, and their sumptuous, lush demeanors are best enjoyed within three years of vintage.  They are an excellent source of tasty and reasonably priced wines although their generally anemic acidities give them limited value at the table. 

2008 Kendall Jackson Syrah, Vintner's Reserve, California

84               Drink now-2012               $15, QPR index - 5.6

Dominated by dusty cherry fruit with hints of blueberries and underbrush, the 2008 Syrah is a simple effort that nonetheless offers sweet aromatics, reasonable balance, as well as a peppery/gamey quality that well represent the intrinsic qualities of the variety.  This fruit-filled, plush Syrah should be enjoyed over the next 6 months.

2009 Cameron Hughes Zinfandel, "The Flying Winemaker," Lodi, California

85               Drink now-2012               $11, QPR index - 7.7

The 2009 exhibits a smoky/cedary character intermixed with sweet, ripe red fruits together with hints of ground pepper and even a kiss of lavender.  The alcoholic heat on the back end is admittedly distracting, but a concentrated midpalate and the wine's youthful generosity ultimately win the day.  

Cameron Hughes is one of the world's most consistent producers of wines that consistently over-deliver and offer a great deal of flavor for under $15.    

2008 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Napa Valley, California

89               Drink now-2020               $40, QPR index - 2.2              

Like most 2008s, the Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley possesses a dark purple color.  Demure, seductive aromas redolent of creme de cassis, tobacco, worn leather, and warm, sweet dark fruit precede an amazingly full, opulent palate with enormous concentration, richness and sheer extract.  My score would be considerably higher, save for a finish laden with adamantly dry, searing tannins.  Perhaps time will help, although this is certainly a commendable bottling that can be enjoyed now with a grilled or broiled red meats, or cheeses with a high fat content.  It merits mention that prices at Hall have remained modest and reasonable despite steadily increasingly demand for the estate's entire portfolio, particularly their single-vineyard offerings.  

2009 Ridge, "Geyserville," Sonoma Coast, California

94               Drink now-2016               $30, QPR index - 3.1

The 2009 Geyserville is off the charts and simply breathtaking.  Its aromatics convey the primary and youthfully energetic qualities of Zinfandel in a bouquet marked by ripe black fruits, pepper, earthy/mineral tones, oak spice and cigar box.  What's more, it offers fascinating evolution with extended time in the glass.  The plush character of Carignan and the structural firmness of Petite Sirah and Mourvedre reveal the deft, reflective hand of winemaking that continue to inform Paul Draper's wines.  Despite a boatload of sweet, ripe tannin, in 2009 the texture remains superbly finessed and ethereal, almost conveying a sense of weightlessness.  

2008 Ridge, "Lytton Springs," Sonoma County, California

90               Drink now-2016               $26, QPR index - 3.5

The 2008 Lytton Springs is another excellent value from Ridge, rife with sweet tobacco, black cherries and blackberries.  If you plan on drinking this young, be advised that the wine needs time, as a distinct crayola/crayon box note was present on both occasions I've open this bottling, though in each case time allowed them to dissipate.  I love the richness, open-texutre, silky and elegant mouthfeel and layered personality.  The blend in 2008 is 74% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan.

2006 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont

89               Drink 2014-2022               $30, QPR index - 3.0

In similar form to the last time I tasted it, the 2006 Barbaresco remains a challenging wine to assess now, but promises tons of upside.  In short, the 2006 is a massively structured wine still in its infancy and couched in a period of dormancy.  With backward aromas and a distanced, austere palate showing the essence of cellar dust, black cherries and mint, this simply needs time and, in all likelihood, lots of it.  This represents a serious entry level wine offering admirable structure, power and outstanding balance, suggesting that my score will jump considerably if the wine is able to integrate its component parts in the future.

2008 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Prologue, Napa Valley, California

91               Drink now-2018               $25, QPR index - 3.7

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Prologue is also produced from estate grown fruit, specifically lots culled from the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve bottling.  It opens with a dense, concentrated nose of blackberries and minerals with the unmistakeable purity and focus that so often characterize wines from Todd Anderson and Mac Sawyer.  Additional notes of licorice and spice box emerge with time in the glass, leading to a gorgeously ripe, full-flavored wine that is jam packed with black fruits, graphite, spice box and cedar as well as excellent volume, freshness and buoyancy.  This second label is a shining example why "second wines" very often define the world's best wine values.

2010 Altovinum Garnacha, "Evodia," Calatayud, Spain

86               Drink now-2012               $11, QPR index - 7.8

From centenarian vines sourced from high-elevation sites in Calatayud, the 2010 Evodia wafts scents of liquid violets, potpourri, lavender, spices, and sweetly ripe dark red fruits.  Penetratingly floral, supple in texture and exhibiting a seamless mouthfeel as well as opulence without feeling heavy, this is a super-inexpensive cuvee that over-delivers in terms of quality.  Unoaked and food friendly, this offers bold, uncompromising aromas and flavors that culminate in a wine that is distinctive and, stated simply, a lot of fun to drink.

2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, Napa Valley, California

96               Drink now-2028               $65, QPR index - 1.5

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve opens with an exquisite bouquet that evokes creme de cassis, forest floor, campfire/burning embers, graphite and some background oak.  Supremely elegant without lacking in punch or power, with a high level of integrated acidity as well as a seamless, satiny texture, the wine also reveal a firmness of tannin that manages to lend the wine a sense of power, focus and authority.

Proprietor Todd Anderson and his winemaker Mac Sawyer have crafted another totally compelling, awesome value in California Cabernet Sauvignon.  Their three top cuvees, the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, the St. Emilion-inspired Right Bank cuvee (Merlot and Cabernet Franc) and their tete-de-cuvee, Eloge (primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with varying amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), are among the purest, most distinctive and convincingly superb wines made anywhere in California...or the world!  Sublime is the closest I can come to approximating the inspired beauty of these Bordeaux style blends, but the simple fact is that words just fall short of doing them justice.

2011 Farrell Distributing Wine Trade Show, top 15 values

I was able to attend Farrell's Fall Trade Show for the second year in a row.  To say that they pull out all the stops with their culinary offerings is an unforgivable understatement, and the presentation of everything from sushi rolls to every variety of creme brulee on earth is as gorgeous as the diverse tapestry of their flavors.  The Equinox again proved its capabilities for handling such a large crowd, and I have to voice my gratitude to Farrell for dishing out for what is certainly an expensive space, as I hate attending trade shows where one is hardly afforded elbow room.  My impressions below encompass the best 15 wines in terms of quality/price ratio:  

93+ – 2009 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clarke and Telephone Vineyard Sonoma ($30.00)

Stunnningly melds a firm, tight mouthfeel with exemplary focus, lending terrific authority to the abundance of rich, intense, complex flavors; astonishing equilibrium and personality in spades; very varietal, yet singular and distinctive; exceptional winemaking here

91 - 2007 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($37.59)

                Exhibits terrific balance, with a nose revealing sweet dark fruit along with compelling, evolved
                secondary nuances; healthy, gorgeous acidity and integrated tannins

91 – 2007 Macrostie Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain ($24.80)

A beautiful wine from start to finish, with complex, sexy notes of apples intermingling with plenty of acids to lend the wine a sophisticated, elegant demeanor; clearly from low yields and a respectful, conscientious producer with plenty of help from a superlative vintage; this is understated but memorable for its purity and healthy radiance

90+ – 2008 Macrostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ($15.03)

Attractively tropical, revealing fresh aromatics redolent of pineapple, pears, and flowers as well as underlying minerality; long and persistent, with even greater savory minerality emerging on the long, ingratiating finish

90 – 2007 Cameron Hughes Syrah lot 156 ($9.77)

A fine glass pour Syrah if I’ve ever seen one!  This is a finely tuned, skillfully sculpted Syrah with persistent aromatics of sweet dark fruit and licorice packaged in a breezy, weightless style that features superfine tannins and gorgeous, healthy acids; at this price, the balance offered here is absurd 

90    - 2001 Bodegas Ontanon Gran Reserva ($24.80)

89+ - 2004 Bodegas Ontanon Reserva ($16.53)

I am thrilled to have stumbled upon wines from the tiny estate of Bodegas Ontanon, a small family-owned estate stationed in Rioja Baja.  Winemaker Ruben took over winemaking duties from his father in 2001, a vintage that Laine (Ruben’s sister and the winery’s marketing head) recalls, smilingly, as the best of the past decade.  Tasting through the six wines she offered (two of which are from Ruben’s recently established subsidiary project from purchased fruit in Ribera del Duero) Ruben’s style might be summarized as one that prizes purity of fruit andaromatic complexity, and his wines are imbued with compelling, distinctive and concentrated personalities.  He works with yields even lower than those mandated by the DO, and this excellent showing attests to his skill and non-interventionist approach to vinification.  The Gran Reserva (2001) and Reserva (2004) are equally complete, though I happen to prefer the fresh, vivacious nature of the Reserva (2004) to the more brooding and at this stage backward Gran Reserva (2001).

90 – 1997 Kalin Cellars Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($27.81)

A seductive, alluring nose of wilted flowers, mushrooms, forest floor amidst some reductive notes; the palate reveals even greater floral character than the nose, with enough fruit to make the tertiary, highly evolved components seem attractive and intellectually satisfying rather than distracting

90 – 2007 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($27.06)

Conveys aromatic notions of brown sugar and tar in a swarthy, distinctive style, with nice extraction and elegance, as well as a focused attack that cuts broadly across the palate, with tannins that build gradually creep toward a forceful, virile, structured finish; this is a swarthy wine with persistent aromatics and nice depth

89 – 2008 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($26.30)

Displays lots of blackcurrant/crème de cassis in a package that was unmistakably addressed from the Napa Valley, with serious density, purity and opulence; a flashy, fruit-driven, low-acid style; good length

89 – 2006 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera Ravera ($24.05)

A lithe and supple style, with finessed tannins, yet very good-excellent concentration that houses flavors of blueberries, licorice and damp earth tones; the racy yet supple character creates a nice textural interplay; foursquare winemaking

89 – 2007 Kendall Jackson Merlot Grand Reserve ($16.54)

What’s not to like here?  Medium-full bodied, full-flavored, soft, and irresistibly delicious juice produced from beautifully healthy fruit; with forward herbal/cherry flavors, ingratiating tannins and silky texture, one might further count the admittedly two-dimensional profile here a virtue, as it leaves no doubt that this is designed to simply provide its consumers enormous and pretention-less pleasure

88 – 2007 Macrostie Pinot Noir Wildcat Mountain ($28.56)

Produces a bouquet of fresh mint intermixed with red berry fruit together with herbs and new oak (although I’m told only 20% new wood is used); attractive, vivid varietal flavors and a seamless texture throughout, though the finish drops off rather quickly; this is very fine, but lacks the completely convincing winemaking that seems more evident in the Chardonnays

 88 – 2008 Ravines Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes ($12.77)

            In a certain sense, this was the revelatoriest wine of the afternoon for me;            

reveals reticent aromas that convey a certain sexy shyness more than anything reluctant or demure; it is immediately and unquestionably clear that this is a producer working with very, very low yields, who respects his vineyards and works them thoroughly and whose results attest to his passion and uncompromising work ethic; there is no intrusive, obvious herbaceousness, nearly complete ripeness, no hard edges, and aromas and flavors of game and red fruits; healthy acid levels

87 –2009 Ogier Heritages Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc ($8.26)

Eager, lifted aromas of lemon curd as well as a hint of white pepper emerge, while the palate conveys good freshness, crushed rocks, and a pleasant texture with no hard edges 

2009 Domaine la Garrigue Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone Valley, France

90               Drink 2012-2020               $20, QPR index - 4.5

Dispersing aromatic notions of truffles, licorice, underbrush and dark fruit as well as flavors of dark plums, blackcurrants, and tobacco, this brooding, well-structured and still relatively backward wine possesses admirable purity, a full-bodied opulence, silky tannins and a luxurious mouthfeel.  With terrific integration of tannin, acidity, alcohol and oak, this expressive, swarthy and seductive wine amounts a serious effort from this producer.  It will benefit from a year or two of cellaring, which should help shed some tannin and add direction and momentum to the midpalate-finish transition.

2008 Domaine Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon, "Occultum Lapidem," Roussillon, France

92               Drink now-2014+               $16, QPR index - 5.8

The 2008 Occultum Lapidem shows a good deal of poise on the nose, with ripe black cherries and wet earth in the forest showing beautiful articulation and seductiveness.  The palate reveals serious concentration and personality as well as additional dimensions of boysenberries, cut oats and excellent minerality which build toward an eloquent, polished finish that recall, in lengthy echo, the character and complexity of this exceptional wine.  At this price, the value offered here might be best described as otherworldly!  Grenache, Syrah and old bush vine Carignan, hand-harvested and bottled without fining or filtration.

2009 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay, "Karia," Napa Valley, California

88               Drink now-2014               $25, QPR index - 3.6

Nutty aromas announce the 2009 Chardonnay "Karia," which shows a good deal of oak and constituent spice/smoke character as well as abundant notes of vibrant citrus fruits.  Medium-bodied with refreshing acidity and tropical fruit flavors, this remains pure and rather expressive through a finish that evokes toasty, buttery details.  Nice typicity here.

2008 Bogle "Phantom," Red Blend, North Coast, California

88               Drink now-2015               $16, QPR index - 5.5

For 2008, the blend is roughly equal parts old vine Zinfandel and Petite Sirah with just a seasoning of Mourvedre.  It displays peppery, spicy aromatics intermixed with blackberries, black cherries and cola.  Medium-full bodied, amply flavored and very spicy, this shows a lot of flavor and persistence at this price level, with a long, fruit-filled finish.  Production for this cuvee is relatively low for this producer, and I suspect that figure is even lower in 2008 due to widespread problems with flowering, resulting in lowered yields.  The grapes for this cuvee are sourced from Lodi (Zinfandel), Amador County (Petite Sirah), and Clarksburg (Mourvedre).  I suspect that this sensual, rich blend has the structure to evolve for another year or so and will hold up for a good 3-4 years from there.  Here is an outstanding value, but that's no surprise considering the name on the label.

2009 Domaine Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley, France

94+               Drink now-2027               $35, QPR index - 2.7

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is simply stunning.  It displays off the charts richness, aromatic depth, and textural opulence as well as incredibly pure aromatics of Provencal herbs, lavender, and spicy blackberries.  This shows a dimension of radiance and warm, supple fruit that most 2009s are not showing at this early stage.  Even in Chateauneuf du Pape, wine too seldom tastes like this.  It is even better than the glorious 2007, and if it continues to gain complexity in bottle it will ultimately merit a classic score.  

Gaston Chiquet Brut NV, "Tradition,"

90              Drink now-2014               $38, QPR index - 2.3

Expressive, chiseled aromatics meld seamlessly into flavors of orchard fruits, minerals and crushed rocks/gravel.  With a fine mousse, seamless texture and notable detail, this is a beautifully crafted and very aromatic Champagne, with at least a few prime years of drinking ahead.  Disgorged 14 October 2010.

2003 Bocca di Lupo Aglianico Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy

82               Drink n/a               $35, QPR index - 2.3            

The 2003 Castel del Monte, produced from the Aglianico grape, is certainly in decline, with a fruit-deficient bouquet of bacon fat, smoke, tapenade and cedar.  It makes a smooth and sufficiently promising entry before dropping its appeal in the midpalate and showing nothing of interest in its structured finish.  The acidity and structure were present to make this a 10 year wine, but, sadly, neither the persistence of fruit and/or requisite balance to make these aging bones much fun to drink.

Various tasting notes: private tasting at Vermont Wine Merchants

Kris and Mike put on one hell of a tasting Monday afternoon, solidifying their reputation for possessing the best portfolio of high quality Italian wines to be found in Vermont.  While their Baroli and Brunelli were showstoppers, other Italian wine regions had the opportunity to display their less-familiar vinous riches, with a number of southern reaches, especially Sicily and Puglia, showing remarkably well.  Pinot Noir hailing from the Willamette Valley and Central Otago were equally compelling, while Bordeaux's producers and offerings were received less enthusiastically, though, to be fair, several bottles offered were from the problematic and challenging 2008 vintage.  Toward the end of our marathon session, a couple Australian delights, a varietal Shiraz and a southern Rhone-style blend, were thrown in gratis.  The VWM tasting facility was warm and inviting, with the requisite glassware, cleanliness and atmosphere conducive to professional tasting.  As far as Kris and Mike are concerned, their collective passion, knowledge and patience lie beyond reproach, nor will their generosity be forgotten.

Italy

2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (Score n/a, Drink n/a)

Out of the gate this appears penetratingly floral, with somewhat oxidized ripe fruit and an exotic, almost flamboyant demeanor.  After decanting, volatile and unpleasant aromatics become more pronounced.  A bad bottle alone isn't enough for censure, but it merits mentioning that bottle variation has been a problem at this address in the past.

2005 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (94, Drink 2012-2020)

A lovely, endearing Monprivato is the 2005, which shows a nose of sweet raspberries, herbs and licorice.  On the palate its youth and primary character are evident, with plenty of elegant fruit in its lean, compressed profile flanked by voluptuous tannins that firm considerably on the back end.  This is as traditional as Barolo gets, and it is Mascarello so it needs time.

2003 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (91, Drink 2011-2014)

Already at full maturity, the 2003 proves more reticent than the 2005, with reluctant aromatics redolent of baking spices, rich plum jam, and new French oak.  This lacks the aromatic freshness and vigor of most outstanding Brunellos, but it is my opinion that its swarthy, opulent fruit and sexy, seductive personality win the day.

2005 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (89, Drink 2013-2017)

The 2005 shows even more oak than the 2003, with a treble octave of bright red cherries, white chocolate and wet autumn leaves.  On the palate, the wine shows notable freshness much in keeping with the vintage, but it seems to lose focus around the midpalate where a disjointed, awkward transition to the finish proves penalizing.   My experience with this producer makes me believe a year or so of bottle age should help this young Brunello better integrate its oak, and I'd bet this will show more advantageously in the future.

2009 Fattoria di Magliano, "Heba,"Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany (87, Drink now-2013)

A widely available and affordable bargain, this Sangiovese shows aromas and flavors of hard candy, cherry fruit rollup and balsamic.  Its low acidity isn't necessarily out of place given the warm, coastal microclimate of Scansano, this fat, unctuously textured style is, admittedly, not what I look for in Sangiovese.

2010 La Mondianese Grignolino, Piedmont (88, Drink now-2012)

This distinctive and delicious Piedmontese red is imbued with fennel, anise and red berry character as well as lovely piquancy and an endearing personality.  This is admirable for its bright, fresh flavors and purity of fruit.  No oak.

2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso, Umbria (82?, Drink now-2012)

The 2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosse, from Umbria, possesses a blowsy, smudged bouquet that leads to a disjointed and unfocused attack.  I hope this is a bad bottle?

2009 Velenosi Lacrima di Morro, Marche (87, Drink now-2013)

This easygoing, harmonious red shows lots of fruit and big oak in a highly distinctive style that remains well-balanced through the finish.  Very appealing for its singularity and front-loaded appeal, though admittedly in need of further complexity.  From The Marche.

2008 Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily (92, Drink now-2014)

This blend of Frappato (40%) and Nero d'Avola (60%) displays excellent definition in its gingerbread, sweet spices, blueberries and flowers.  It continues onto the palate with beautifully articulated freshness, integrated tannins, multidimensional texture and a thirty second finish.  A standout.

2009 Tormaresca Neprica, Puglia (87, Drink now-2013)

The 2009 Neprica is a blend of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  This remains reasonably focused and well within itself, with a monolithic profile of blue and black fruits and an underlying nuance of lavender.  I set this aside for a while hoping that time would allow the juice to show additional flavor dimension, although its score reflects its inability to do so.

2006 Cantina Barbera Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, Sicily (90, Drink now-2014)

Displaying a good deal of complexity and potential is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, which is captivating in its expression of fresh herbs, flowers, licorice and understated fruit.  Its sense of structure creeps up on the finish, where things firm up considerably.  With no hard edges and a deep well of dark fruit as well as gorgeous texture and poise, this is an awesome value in Cabernet Sauvignon.  Bravo!

2007 Uccelliera Rapace, Tuscany (92+, Drink 2012-2017+)

The 2007 Rapace explodes from the glass with aromatics redolent of pumpkin spice, cinnamon, perfectly ripe blueberries, and dark cherries.  It is beautifully focused with pointed fruit, a sumptuous richness and refined tannins.  This lengthy effort has a long, bright future.  Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

2008 Torcicoda Tormaresca Primitivo, Puglia (89, Drink now-2013)

This spicy Primitivo is laced with notes of black pepper and plump fruit, with a streak of damp earth that keeps the rich dark fruit in check.  A spicy, savory, well-endowed Primitivo, I find it impossible to resist a second sip!

2005 Bussola Amarone, Veneto (91, Drink 2012-2017)

Brownie batter, roasted herbs, a port-like texture, as well as spices emerge from the 2005 Bussola Amarone, an enormously endowed red also possessed of plenty of structure and polish despite the expansive scope and remarkable richness.  This is a decadent, hedonistic delight for the senses.

New Zealand

2009 Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir, "Roaring Meg," Central Otago (88, Drink now-2013)

The 2009 Roaring Meg shows pretty, perfumed aromas that lead to a soft, ingratiating, primary wine laced with black cherries and plum preserves in a soft, yielding style.  The integrated, supple tannins and primary character of the wine suggest that this will be a short lived though pleasure-bent effort.  Just a touch flabby and smudged, but a fine effort.

2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago (90, Drink now-2014)

More floral, complex, and stylish is the 2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn, with classic varietal aromas of unwashed feet and berry fruit as well as a satellite note of mint that translates onto the palate as well.  This evolves beautifully in the glass, developing earthy nuances and fleshing out considerably with time.

Oregon

2008 Montinore Pinot Noir, "Estate Reserve," Willamette Valley (86, Drink now-2013)

The 2008 Estate Reserve is an understated, elegant offering that evokes red berries, minerals, and spices. Considering the vintage, this is a shade underfruited and disappointing in its clipped finish.  I rarely find this producer exciting, and at times their wines fall short of competence.

2009 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir, "Les Cousins," Willamette Valley (92, Drink now-2014)

An insane value and one of the brightest spots of the afternoon was this sexy, captivating "Les Cousins," a juicy, complete wine endowed with bright effusive berry fruit, spring flowers, a texture that is pure silk, and lots of complexity.  This shows both power and finesse, as well as enough aromatic nuance to keep the intellect as well as the senses engaged.  One of the great values in Oregonian Pinot Noir.

Bordeaux

2008 Chateau Patache d'Aux, Medoc (84, Drink now-2012)

This red smells and tastes underfruited and overoaked, with harsh tannins and obvious, intrusive herbaceousness severely compromising balance as well as drinkability.  With a hard, austere core, this is simply not fun to drink.

2008 Chateau Laplagnotte-Bellevue, St. Emilion (86, Drink now-2013)

Somewhat riper and more appealing than some others in this lineup, this Merlot-dominated St. Emilion shows greater fullness of flavor, with chocolate, herbs and dark cherry fruit intermixed with subtle oak tones.  Nicely balanced.

2008 Chateau Beau-Site, St. Estephe (91, Drink 2013-2017)

Far and away the most complete wine of the bunch is the 2008 Beau-Site, with intense, lifted aromatics that evoke violets, espresso roast, spice, and blackberries.  A complex, dense, well-endowed St. Estephe, this should put on some weight on the mid-palate with bottle age and will offer prime, pleasurable drinking after 2013.  This is an excellent feat of winemaking from this producer, and a commendable effort from a challenging vintage.

2009 Chateau St. Didier-Parnac, Cahors (87, Drink now-2012)

This Cahors (Malbec) displays expressive red fruits and coffee in its bouquet, leading to a rounded, polished texture up front and a finish revealing a medium level of sandy tannins.  A touch rustic in the end, but it works for me.

Australia

2008 John Duval Wines Shiraz, "Entity," Barossa Valley (91+, Drink now-2015+)

Amply proportioned, rich, and sumptuous, the 2008 Entity entices with underpinnings of apple cider and coffee that weave through the explosive and irresistible blanket of dark fruit.  Things remained focused throughout, with filigree tannins and a tart, puckering quality to the finish.  Textbook, reference point Barossa Shiraz.

2007 John Duval Wines Red Blend, "Plexus," Barossa Valley (88, Drink now-2014)

The 2007 Plexus is another successful wine, though it lacks the tiered, multidimensional personality of the 2008 Entity.  It is also darker and restrained in its expression of tar, earth and blackberries, with a soft core of dark fruit and earth enshrouded in supple, integrated tannins.  This is a slightly austere, brooding style, but it follows form from start to finish and is pretty convincing in its seductive, almost mysterious personality.

2008 Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

95               Drink 2015-2035               $140, QPR index - .68

The blend for the 2008 Monte Bello is about three fourths Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Merlot, so there is uncharacteristically no Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc in this year's version of this reference-point California Cabernet Sauvignon.  A pure, completely authoritative array of lifted aromatics emerge from the 2008 with an opulence that reflects the super low-yielding nature of the vintage and resulting concentration of its best wines.  Tobacco, flowers, copious quantities of sensual black fruits, and a kiss of oak come together in a seamless, totally complete and compelling expression of Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon, revealing an additional note of tar in the wake of a sweeping, convincing finish.  The high level of firm tannins and the sheer density that manifest in the glass suggest that this will need another 4-6 years to show to full advantage, and thenceforth should effortlessly age for decades.

The famed Monte Bello vineyard is situated in the eastern half of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, and reaches an altitude of 2,600 feet while enjoying a southeastern exposure.  The 2008 vintage is the 39th year that iconic winemaker Paul Draper has spun vinous silk from grapes grown in the cool-climate Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, located about 50 miles south of San Francisco.  This tasting was my first chance to taste a Monte Bello, as a recent attempt to acquire a few bottles of the 1992, 1994, and 1996 unfortunately fell through.  While Draper is renowned for his hands-on approach in the vineyards and noninterventionist approach to vinification, the 2008 vintage made excessive pruning and green-harvesting unnecessary as spring frosts caused pervasively irregular flowering, with yields down close to 50% in many areas.  What followed was a relatively cool sumer with few heat spikes, conditions that allowed grapes the luxury of long hang-times, full phenolic development, and potentially excellent balance between sugars, acidity, and tannin.  I was positively giddy waiting for this bottle to come around in my decanter!  My overall impression here is one of awe in terms of the purity and unmanipulated character encapsulated in this bottling, although today the wine is excruciatingly young and will prove far more layered in its fruit, not to mention more alluring from a textural standpoint in the future.  In short, the Monte Bello wines will require almost interminable patience if one wishes to drink them at full maturity.  The Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (also from the Monte Bello vineyard, but produced from grapes not chosen for the estate's top wine) is an excellent alternative, as it tends to show fabulously well out of bottle, possesses a more extroverted, user-friendly profile, and can be had for around $45.  Reviews for the 2008 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, the 2009 Ridge Geyserville (a blend of mostly Zindandel from the northern Sonoma Coast), and the 2009 Chardonnay Monte Bello will be available in the coming weeks.

2008 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Washington

90               Drink now-2015               $25, QPR idnex - 3.6

The serious, cerebral 2008 Amavi Cabernet Sauvignon wafts charcoal and cedar as well as creme de cassis and black currants.  Like the 2006 and 2007, it shows nice mid-palate intensity, a firm, grippy mouthfeel as well as a dramatically expansive elegance that may well be called the hallmark of the Amavi style.  Only slightly off pace of the 2007, this is also decidedly more forward, with chewy tannins, admirable concentration and remarkable purity.  This St-Julien look-alike can be enjoyed now and over the next 4-5 years.  Readers who possess bottles of the estate's Cabernet Sauvignon should consider opening them far in advance of consumption, as they tend to initially appear austere and distanced before blossoming and evolving beautifully over the course of an evening.

2009 Cameron Hughes lot 241, GSM blend, Arroyo Seco, Monterey, California

87               Drink now-2014               $13, QPR index - 6.7

Lot 241 contains aromatic notions of fresh thyme, soil, cherries, and ground black pepper, which lead to a palate of cherry and plum fruit along with details of minerals, soil, and spices.  With a deliciously savage personality, this tasty, savory effort can be drunk over the next three years.

Food and Wine Meal #4

First: Tuscan Antipasti Plate, with Prosciutto, Hot Capicolla, olive and anchovy pate, maplebrook buffalo mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano with aceto balsamico

2008 Renato Ratti Dolcetto d'Alba Colombe, Piedmont, Italy, $20 (85-87 points)
A swarthy, primary wine is the 2008 Ratti Colombe, showcasing front-loaded notes of blackberry, cinnamon, and iron as well as a touch of cinnamon.  Simply delicious, and as unpretentious and versatile as it gets.

Second: Spinach Lasagna Bolognese

2006 Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, $23 (90-92+ points)

This is the fourth time I've had this wine, and it has shown beautifully on each occasion.  This shows understated yet authoritative flavors of dark plums, marker ink, forest floor and licorice that gain complexity and depth with time in the glass.  Simply stated, this tastes like the bottled essence of Tuscany.

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco, "Vigneto Cichin," Nieve, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, $50 (92-93 points)

A ripe, caressing style, the 2004 Barbaresco "Cichin" is redolent of flowers, spices, super-ripe dark fruit, vanilla, and coffee.  An undeniably modern and highly extracted wine, this remains sleek and tight despite the expansive richness and is remarkable for its scope as well as execution.  A long finish of berry and mocha leaves a flattering impression.  Simply gorgeous.

2006 Betts and Scholl Grenache, "The Chronique," Barossa Valley, Australia

92               Drink now-2016+               $35, QPR index - 2.6

The 2006 Grenache "The Chronique" announces its presence with a bouquet of forest floor, sage, black cherries and blueberries along with a note of licorice that emerges with time in the glass.  It explodes onto the palate with excellent definition in its warm, supple fruit, while additional herbal and spicy underpinnings add complexity.  This is ripe and intense, but very well executed.

2001 Kiona Merlot, "Nice Legs," Washington State

87               Drink now-2013               $13, QPR index - 6.7

An unexpected surprise is the freshness and definition present in the 2001 Merlot "Nice Legs," a crimson-colored red imbued with the high-pitched essence of wild strawberries and red raspberries as well as hints of toasty oak and herbs.  This is simply delicious with a decided elegance to the ripe fruit.  A touch of alcohol was discernible at the outset, but dissipated with air.

2010 Matteo Correggia Arneis, Roero, Piedmont, Italy

88               Drink now-2013               $17, QPR index - 5.2

While not as memorably radiant or exotically floral as the 2009, the 2010 Arneis is nevertheless a successful wine from this reference-point Roero producer.  It displays a pleasant bouquet of bitter almond and pear that promises and then delivers a mouthful of fresh, pure, orchard fruit-laden Arneis.  

The late Matteo Correggia's memory is now carried on by his wife Ornella, who runs this highly consistent and reliable estate.  They are an excellent place to start what will certainly prove a fruitful exploration of the Arneis grape, an ancient and aromatically compelling variety grown almost exclusively in the rugged hills of the Roero, northwest of the Langhe in Piedmont.       

2008 Robert Denogent Puilly-Fuisse la Croix Vielles Vignes, Puilly-Fuisse, Burgundy, France

86               Drink now-2013               $35, QPR index - 2.5

The 2008 features aromatic notions of sweet citrus fruits, apples and flowers.  Medium-bodied and lithe on the palate, this Chardonnay harbors fresh acidity and shows little evidence of wood, with flavors that build toward a tangy, medium-lengthed close.  Drink this easy-going, nicely paced effort over the next couple years.

2007 Castello d'Albola Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico, Italy

85               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.7

The generic 2007 Castello d'Albola displays straightforward aromatics of toast, vanilla, and dark cherries.  It is a concentrated wine with low acidity and a plush mouthfeel, though its overriding oaky character seems to highjack the palate where classic Sangiovese character seems handcuffed by a strong flavors of cut wood.  This has shown better on other occasions.

2008 Vinedos Terranoble Carmenere Gran Reserva, Maule Valley, Chile

84               Drink n/a               $18, QPR index - 4.7

The 2008 Carmenere Gran Reserva is underfruited and smells manipulated/processed, stripped of a great deal of its regional and varietal character (likely due to extensive fining and filtering prior to bottling) .  What might be called a "classic" carmenere herbal character is here a badge of under-ripeness, as the 2008 Gran Reserva is possessed of stalky, stemmy flavors as well as a coarse and grainy texture and finish.  There is simply not enough fruit to justify a drinking window. 

2009 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny, Loire Valley, France

87               Drink now-2012               $16, QPR index - 5.4

This is a fresh, vibrant Cheverny, with lime and tropical fruit character as well as a hint of pine.  This uncomplicated but balanced blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay should be consumed over the next 18 months, where its pure, fresh demeanor can be spotlighted.

The small appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny are situated around the town of Blois, stationed on the left bank of the Loire River upstream of Vouvray and Montlouis.  Like most of the eastern Loire Valley, Blois is stationed on white Kimmeridgian chalk with a high density of fossilized oyster shells betraying the landscape's marine origins.  Cheverny produces wines made primarily from Sauvignon, although Chardonnay must always be included in the blend.  Cour-Cheverny, a tiny appellation, focuses on wines made from the almost extinct yet distinctive and intriguingly aromatic Romarantin grape.  While I find it difficult to believe that the wines of Cheverny benefit from the mandatory addition of Chardonnay, such a practice does lend these regional offerings a generally rounder mouthfeel and less raciness than, say, is the case in better known appelations of Sancerre and Menetou-Salon.  For me, Cheverny often smells and tastes like a hypothetical cross of a Sancerre and a refined Chablis.  Inexpensive prices suggest that these regions remain underappreciated and in that light their wines tend to represent excellent value.  

2007 Anderson's Conn Valley, Eloge, Napa Valley, California

96               Drink now-2030               $75, QPR index - 1.3

The prodigious 2007 Eloge is comprised of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Petit Verdot and Merlot.  It carries a supremely complex nose of cedar, creme de cassis, tobacco and incense, followed by a beautifully complete, concentrated and intense palate with outstanding depth and poise as well as precision.  Its wonderfully healthy, fresh acidity adds an unmistakably elegant dimension to the copious dark fruits, and the mid palate begins a crescendo of flavor and tremendous opulence that carries through to a long, monumentally satisfying finish that reveals earthy, soily undertones.  This is a totally complete, masterfully constructed, gorgeous wine which will be fascinating to follow for at least two decades.  Bravo!

2007 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Parallel 45 Cotes du Rhone, Southern Rhone Valley, France

86 points               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

Sweet yet reticent aromatics emerge from the 2007 Cotes du Rhone, a large cuvee (60,000 cases imported) produced from sourced fruit whose growers are clustered around the 45th parallel in the southern Rhone.  Flavors of blue and purple fruits, espresso roast and a touch of apple juice (?) are tasty though a touch smudgy.  Possessing reasonable length, fine acidity as well as a medium-high level of ripe, ingratiating tannin, this is a solid effort from this producer.  Rather straight-laced for the vintage although such an unassuming price leaves a certain margin for error (stretching yields are we?).

A tasting of inexpensive Spanish and Portuguese Reds

I am constantly being asked what wines under $10 best and most consistently represent outstanding value.  In the search for inexpensive wines imbued with regional as well as varietal distinctiveness and ripe, concentrated fruit, blindly buying into Spanish reds will rarely prove disastrous.  Certainly there are other players in the value game, and while, for example, Argentina's Malbecs, Australia's Shiraz and wines from the Cotes du Rhone at this price level can be genuine and delicious, Spain's value-priced wines more often hail from old-vine parcels of indigenous varieties (a number of them found almost nowhere else in the world) that frequently translate to a more distinctively unique drinking experience and stratospheric quality/price ratio.  Nor do readers need to focus on only a few regions, as household appellation names like Rioja and Rias Baixas are equally reliable sources of underpriced wines as emerging regions like cool-climate Bierzo (where Mencia thrives), Jumilla (focus on Monastrell-based reds), and Ribera Sacra (another hotbed for the Mencia grape) to mention only a few.  In fact, only in the northeasterly region of Priorat will readers consistently find wines frequently carrying a retail price of $30 or more, and while these wines will not be the focus of this article, Priorat's old-vine Grenache and Carignan blends can be captivating, and, in a number of cases, revelatory.

Recently, I blindly purchased four close-out priced reds from Spain and Portugal, ignoring vintage, region, and grape variety.  While I don't suggest this as a buying strategy, the results of this tasting only serve to confirm my belief that regionally-reflective, distinctive (not to mention delicious) Spanish and Portuguese wines are both widely available and generally represent excellent value.  Don't be afraid of seldom-encountered appellation names, obscure varieties or bland, uninteresting labeling practices.  These marketing impediments embody the very reasons that prices remain so pitifully low.

Note: Wines are scored in a range to denote an unofficial score as they were shown alongside the following simply prepared but delicious meal: pan-seared filet mignon, sauteed carrots and zucchini, and roasted fingerling potatoes.  

2006 Castillo Real Bullas Monastrell (83-85 points) - This has an attractively spicy character, with firm, slightly austere tannins that open to reveal a core of fruit that dries out with air.  Better two years ago, still drinkable.  100% Monastrell. 

2007 Domaines Francois Lurton Duoro Barco (84-86 points) - Ripe and darkly fruited, there is a good deal to like here, from the soy-tinged aromatics to the generous, caressing finish.  A solid effort.  Better with soy-marinated pork or chicken.  Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz hailing from Portugal most renowned appellation, the Duoro.

2008 Casa Gualda Tempranillo (84-86 points) - This is exactly what I was hoping for when I purchased this lineup.  Astonishingly direct, vivid aromas of fennel bulb and fresh blueberries emenate from the glass, while the palate faithfully echoes the character of its bouquet.  Not the last word in complexity by any means, but at this price point the wine's sheer self-confidence and forward personality must be considered virtues.  Try it with a pan-roasted pork chop served alongside sauteed fennel and shiitakes.  100% Tempranillo.

2009 Vina Borgia Campo de Borja (82-85 points) - Sweet cherries and fresh herbs mark a soft, supple entry to a palate profile where bright cherries and an unadorned freshness hold sway.  Clipped finish. Chilled for 15 minutes, this would make nice foil for spicy Chicken Fajitas.  100% Grenache fermented and aged exclusively in tank.