Wine and Food - Episode 2

Dinner at home with family and friends

Appetizer

Artisanal Cheeses, Fruit

Dofino Havarti (Wisconsin), Blythedale Brie, Grafton Smoked Cheddar, Vermont Butter and Cheese Herb Chevre; Assorted Fruits; Red Hen Baking baguettes

           

Wine: 2005 Cloudline Pinot Noir, Oregon Candied orange, sweet vermouth-like with oxidized tones.

            

Past Peak.  (score: n/a)

First

Caesar salad, homemade dressing, local croutons, wild-caught Pacific anchovies

Wine: 2009 Domaine Pierre Duret, Appelation Quincy Contrôlée

Lemon and lime notes, almost sprite like, buttressed with grass and under ripe honeydew melon; ample acidity to keep things bright with crushed chalk character in abundance; tangy, mouthwatering.  (score: 88 points; drink now)

Second

Rustic Tuscan Paella, with local chicken, shrimp, wild Atlantic clams and mussels

           

Wine: 1990/1996 Ruffino Riserva Ducale, Chianti Classico, DOCG

1990 – Closed tight; adamantly earth, exhausted fruit; decanting makes things worse; alcoholic, hot, dead.  (score: n/a)

1996 – Terse, introverted; modest decanting brings out its best featuring a gorgeous inner perfume of black cherry, grilled herbs, freshly turned earth, tar and macerated flowers.  (score: 88; drink now)

Third

Grilled marinated sirloin of lamb, grilled brussel sprouts, charred baby reds with rosemary

Wine: 2007 Tablas Creek Vineyard 'Esprit de Beaucastel', Paso Robles, Rhone Style Blend (Mouvedre, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise)

Carries a huge nose of cherries in liquor, blueberry and violet, this behemoth opens up into a cornucopia of woodsy, campfire and dense earth notes followed by a generous finish of mineral and dried berry.  Beautiful juice.  (Score: 91; drink now-2016)

Dessert

Trio of gelato: raspberry, chocolate, coconut.

What a terrific evening!  Our guests arrived with much left for us to do…but a drink or two helped along the way.  The caesar salad was terrific, and the Loire Sauvignon sang.  Our seafood paella was excellent, and presented beautifully.  The earthy, slightly sweet nature of the lamb showed well against the big fruit and polished tannins evident in the 2007 Tablas Creek.  A hedonist’s delight.  
The real pleasure of the evening was the conversation, which ranged from politics and education to the basic elements of food and wine and the synergy that makes pairings dynamic.  What a pleasure.


"I'd like to propose a toast...Tom, can you put your fork down bud?"

2006 Rufino "Il Ducale" IGT, Tuscany

This Tuscan red expresses its overtly rich fruit while retaining an overall impression of freshness, with textured, ripe black cherry fruit and plum skin the focus of a palate that finds a wine of excellent volume, with more Cabernet character than anything else.  The tannins are less firm than expected considering the vintage.  I don't fault the wine for its decidedly modern pretenses, but opulence here seems to come at the expense of any distinctiveness or recognizable Tuscan charm.  Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Drink now-2013.

87 points.

$15, QPR index - 5.8

2010 Charles and Charles Rosé, Washington

Scents of blood-orange and sweetened strawberries become candied and artificial on the unctuous palate, finding no help from inert acidity and an abbreviated finish.  Neither tasty enough for fun nor adequately crisp to provide refreshment.  Syrah.

Drink now.

82 points.

$11, QPR index - 7.5

2006 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Washington

More muscular and firmly structured than the 2007, the 2006 is an ambitious wine with a solid core of of both fresh blueberries and jam, further distinguished with complex notes of tar and earth.  There is an overriding rusticity to the 2006 that is more charming than unsophisticated.  While it won't be as long lived as the 2007, it is simply delicious now and has plenty of stuffing to pair with charred prime rib or New York Strip.

It would be difficult to overstate my admiration for this winery and their consistently outstanding portfolio.  Both this and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon were aged in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak, both years seeing about 40% new wood.  They can be had at an affordable though not inexpensive price point but, believe me, they are more than fairly priced.  They come with the highest commendation, and are not to be missed.

91 points.

Drink now-2015.

$27, QPR index - 3.4

2007 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Washington

Initially tight and backward, decanting quickly initiates a transformation into a cohesive, lucid and multidimensional wine.  Developed, riveting and with old-world character, it shows tobacco leaf, rose petal, dark red and black fruits as well as a seductive, mysterious element that is simply captivating.  Its flavors are presented in a tightly coiled, compact, medium-bodied package, proceeding with feminine grace and poise.  This is engaging and intriguing even now, while its perceived longevity suggests its potential has only been gleaned.

Readers who feel compelled to turn to California for intensely flavored, structured red wines will likely find Jean-Francois Pellet's wines revelatory.  (Fruit for Amavi's offerings comes from three optimally situated estate vineyards: Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Les Collines).  As representative examples of what Washington State is capable of, discovering and exploring these wines will reveal the expansive, balanced flavors that come from consistently healthy, ripe fruit and the slightly amplified natural acidity these more northernly wines tend to embody.  Perhaps most relevant here, a long string of strong vintages distinguishes the wines of eastern Washington (one would have to go as far back as the unusually cool 1999 to find a widely challenging harvest), a huge desert that is seldom subjected to problematic rain events and the concerns that accompany them.

Drink now-2019.

92 points.

$27, QPR index - 3.4

2006 Vinedos de El Seque, Alicanto DO

This ebullient red is imbued with bright fruit blanketed in new oak, with hints of roasted meat and marker ink.  Blue-fruited and extroverted, this wine is enjoyable for its sweet simplicity and unpretentious demeanor.  Monastrell.

Drink now-2013.

84 points.

$11, QPR index - 7.6

2010 Pico Maccario Piemonte Chardonnay, DOC

Modest tree fruits and flowers come together in this medium bodied, uninspiring and obviously bulk-produced Chardonnay.  The coarse, almost gritty texture is a serious distraction.

Drink now.

82 points.

$11, QPR index - 7.5

2005 Alvaro Palacios "Les Terrasses", Priorato DOC

A profoundly aromatic wine, dispersing aromas of woodsmoke, incense, burnt earth, black cherry and blackberry, the precursors to a full and saturated midpalate offering shaved pencil lead, loads of ripe dense fruit and a hint of fruitcake. This is a serious, intellectual wine that offers dramatic evolution in the glass.  A veritable tour de force!  Garnacha, Carinena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Drink now-2018.

92 points.

$43, QPR index - 2.1

2006 Paola Bea San Valentino IGT, Umbria

The nose is strikingly candied and partially oxidized, with aromas of overripe cherry, grilled herbs and toasted oak.  Faintly medicinal, the mouthfeel is initially silky and sweet before firming considerably on the finish.  Spring flowers and textured fruit are delineated and precise though the oxidized notes are undeniably problematic and ultimately penalizing.  While the quality of fruit, vibrant acidity and perfumed aromatics are admittedly attractive and I'd like to recommend 3-4 years of cellaring, I just don't see enough overall balance to merit such an endeavor.  70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino 15% Montepulciano.

Drink now-2012.

88 points.

$33, QPR index - 2.7

2004 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG

While the 2004 appears a declining wine it remains an encapsulated, if fading, testament to the greatness of its producer and vintage.  The nose evokes roasted herbs, pain grille, licorice, freshly turned earth together with soft wood notes, though the palate is sappy, more forward and with just enough fruit to preserve a reasonable degree of balance.  Smoky and somewhat austere despite considerably developed aromas and flavors, I see no reason to hold this Riserva any longer.  Frankly, I hoped for more.

Drink now-2013.

88 points.

$25, QPR index - 3.5

2008 The Four Graces Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA

The initial attack of raspberry fruit is cut short by the intrusion of metallic tannins and anemic acidity.  The generic, superficial bent of this wine is less a concern than the jagged, almost abrasive texture and hollow finish.  From a lesser vintage I would leave things at awkward and uninspired but from a vintage of 2008's quality this paltry effort is, frankly, an unmitigated disaster.

78 points.

$18, QPR index - 4.3

2008 Terredora Dipaolo Aglianico, Campania IGT

The estate's entry level Aglianico is always an absolute steal, and their 2008 juice is another bargain-priced triumph.  Assorted dark fruits, licorice and tobacco greet the taster along with an exotic quality I often find in this extrordinary grape that is difficult to fully describe.  The palate is focused, sexy, evocative and rich but never loses control, offering noteworthy precision at this price level.  What's more, developed mushroom and earth notes soak the mid-palate and endure well into the long finish.

Drink now-2012.

90 points.

$15, QPR index - 6.0

2004 Villa Mathilde Rocca dei Leoni Aglianico, Campania

Raisins, wet earth and anchovy meet the nose.  Dead.

Past Peak.

(No score)

QPR index - n/a

2008 Alto Almanzora Este, Andalucia, Spain

Dense and inky, with loads of blackberry jam gretting the nose.  The 2008 Este incorporates hints of wild berry, fennel seed and sweet cream balanced by ripe tannin. There is a gentle tension created by the interplay of sweet and savory notes here, with neither prevailing.  Monastrell, Tempranillo, Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Drink now-2013.

87 points.

$10, QPR index - 8.7

2007 Siduri Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA

Pretty and fragrant, boasting well defined floral and cinnamon notes woven into a frame that feels tight yet expansive, with generous acidity and silky red fruits providing enough varietal character and Highlands typicity.

Adam Lee is making a staggering number of serious, engaging Pinots from vineyards spanning the northern Willamette Valley to southern California.  Value-seeking readers need look no further and will not want to miss many wines in his lineup.

Drink now-2016.

88 points.

$30,  QPR index - 2.9

2006 Claraval, Calatayud, Aragon Spain

Chocolate, plum, incense and woodsmoke weave their way through a dense forest of rich, broad, spicy tannins.  The fruit doesn't quite match the intensity of the tannins at this point, but things are in the right place.  Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Drink now with a ribeye or marinated lamb, or give it time in the cellar.

Drink 2013-2017.

89 points.

$13, QPR index - 6.8

2007 Colosi Rosso IGT, Sicily

Opaque purple.  Wafts of sweaty leather and brine support undistinguished cherry aromas, preceding a mouthfeel that is light and supple, offering game and blue fruit notes.  Tannins are sweet, forward, and fine.  Simple, easygoing and lacking depth, drink this unadorned effort now while the fruit remains fresh.  Nero d'Avola.

Drink now-2011.

87 points.

$12, QPR index - 7.3

2005 Stefano Farina Barbaresco, DOCG

Color is an absolutely gorgeous, translucent red-orange and already bricking.  Possesses a beautiful nose of mint, chocolate covered strawberry and wet autumn leaves.  Mouthfilling and layered, with dusty red fruit mingling with macerated spring flowers.  The mid-palate is fleshy and full, with rich, sensuous tannins ensuring harmonious balance.  Drinking well, and nearly at its peak.

Drink now-2018.

91 points.

$40, QPR index - 2.3

2007 Cantina Zaccagnini "Il Vino del Tralcetto" Montapulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva, DOC

Deep purple color with considerable pinking at edges.  Aromas of sweet red fruit, polished leather and vanilla lead to palate-staining cherry and blueberry fruit with swirling nuances of licorice, tobacco and spice box.  Tannins are fine grained and provide requisite balance.  Nice, but needs time.

88 points.

$17, QPR index - 5.2

2004 Stefano Farina Barolo, DOCG

A very minerally style, but with its fruit eliciting elegance over austerity.  Nuances of wilted rose and tar surround a core of meaty ripe cherry, finding support in subtle savory notes and big, polished tannins.  Lush and pretty.  A textbook expression of the vintage.

91 points.

$42, QPR index - 2.2

2004 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi, DOCG

An exceptionally soft, generous and caressing wine, boasting forward, sweet plum and maraschino cherry flavors checked by a fresh acidic structure and big, dry, mouthcoating tannins.  Intellectually engaging and serious. An earthy note outlasts the sweet dark fruit.  Beautiful juice.  Bravo!

Drink now-2020.

92 points.

$43, QPR index - 2.1

Wine and Food - Episode 1

Mother's Day 2011

First course: Field greens salad with panko and thyme encrusted warm goat cheese

Main: Diver scallops with wild mushroom ragout wrapped in swiss chard, served over grilled butternut squash, zucchini and bell peppers, finished with a Chianti reduction and black trumpet mushrooms

2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana, Monforte d'Alba, Barolo

The 2004 Pajana literally explodes out of the glass with aromas redolent of rich dark fruit, plum preserves, various sweet spices and earth.  After modest decanting, nuances of mushroom, leather and tar emerge.  Layered and multidimensional, one can already sense the great complexity that Domenico has captured in this extraordinary Pajana, an entirely south facing vineyard planted on some of the region's oldest terrain.  On the palate, I am greeted by remarkable freshness, framed by seamless oak tannin and detailed further with notes of licorice and a kiss of baking spice.  The astonishing density of flavors finds a tight beam of acidity to lean on ensuring impeccable balance.  Make no mistake, beneath all the muscle there is elegance, finesse and beautiful precision.  Textbook Monforte d'Alba, and a spellbinding expression of this magical harvest. 


Drink 2014-2030.

95 Points.  (wines reviewed during meals are scored, though unofficially)

2007 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso DOC

The 2007 is showy and possesses decent complexity, with notes of ripe plum, prune, coffee and spices on the nose.  The palate conveys a good deal of richness, with jammy raspberry and underbrush filling out this plump, decidedly modern Montefalco.  Polished enough, but its low acidity seems slightly out of place here.  Sagrantino and Sangiovese.

Drink now.

88 points.