2008 Robert Denogent Puilly-Fuisse la Croix Vielles Vignes, Puilly-Fuisse, Burgundy, France

86               Drink now-2013               $35, QPR index - 2.5

The 2008 features aromatic notions of sweet citrus fruits, apples and flowers.  Medium-bodied and lithe on the palate, this Chardonnay harbors fresh acidity and shows little evidence of wood, with flavors that build toward a tangy, medium-lengthed close.  Drink this easy-going, nicely paced effort over the next couple years.

2007 Castello d'Albola Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico, Italy

85               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.7

The generic 2007 Castello d'Albola displays straightforward aromatics of toast, vanilla, and dark cherries.  It is a concentrated wine with low acidity and a plush mouthfeel, though its overriding oaky character seems to highjack the palate where classic Sangiovese character seems handcuffed by a strong flavors of cut wood.  This has shown better on other occasions.

2008 Vinedos Terranoble Carmenere Gran Reserva, Maule Valley, Chile

84               Drink n/a               $18, QPR index - 4.7

The 2008 Carmenere Gran Reserva is underfruited and smells manipulated/processed, stripped of a great deal of its regional and varietal character (likely due to extensive fining and filtering prior to bottling) .  What might be called a "classic" carmenere herbal character is here a badge of under-ripeness, as the 2008 Gran Reserva is possessed of stalky, stemmy flavors as well as a coarse and grainy texture and finish.  There is simply not enough fruit to justify a drinking window. 

2009 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny, Loire Valley, France

87               Drink now-2012               $16, QPR index - 5.4

This is a fresh, vibrant Cheverny, with lime and tropical fruit character as well as a hint of pine.  This uncomplicated but balanced blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay should be consumed over the next 18 months, where its pure, fresh demeanor can be spotlighted.

The small appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny are situated around the town of Blois, stationed on the left bank of the Loire River upstream of Vouvray and Montlouis.  Like most of the eastern Loire Valley, Blois is stationed on white Kimmeridgian chalk with a high density of fossilized oyster shells betraying the landscape's marine origins.  Cheverny produces wines made primarily from Sauvignon, although Chardonnay must always be included in the blend.  Cour-Cheverny, a tiny appellation, focuses on wines made from the almost extinct yet distinctive and intriguingly aromatic Romarantin grape.  While I find it difficult to believe that the wines of Cheverny benefit from the mandatory addition of Chardonnay, such a practice does lend these regional offerings a generally rounder mouthfeel and less raciness than, say, is the case in better known appelations of Sancerre and Menetou-Salon.  For me, Cheverny often smells and tastes like a hypothetical cross of a Sancerre and a refined Chablis.  Inexpensive prices suggest that these regions remain underappreciated and in that light their wines tend to represent excellent value.  

2007 Anderson's Conn Valley, Eloge, Napa Valley, California

96               Drink now-2030               $75, QPR index - 1.3

The prodigious 2007 Eloge is comprised of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Petit Verdot and Merlot.  It carries a supremely complex nose of cedar, creme de cassis, tobacco and incense, followed by a beautifully complete, concentrated and intense palate with outstanding depth and poise as well as precision.  Its wonderfully healthy, fresh acidity adds an unmistakably elegant dimension to the copious dark fruits, and the mid palate begins a crescendo of flavor and tremendous opulence that carries through to a long, monumentally satisfying finish that reveals earthy, soily undertones.  This is a totally complete, masterfully constructed, gorgeous wine which will be fascinating to follow for at least two decades.  Bravo!

2007 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Parallel 45 Cotes du Rhone, Southern Rhone Valley, France

86 points               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

Sweet yet reticent aromatics emerge from the 2007 Cotes du Rhone, a large cuvee (60,000 cases imported) produced from sourced fruit whose growers are clustered around the 45th parallel in the southern Rhone.  Flavors of blue and purple fruits, espresso roast and a touch of apple juice (?) are tasty though a touch smudgy.  Possessing reasonable length, fine acidity as well as a medium-high level of ripe, ingratiating tannin, this is a solid effort from this producer.  Rather straight-laced for the vintage although such an unassuming price leaves a certain margin for error (stretching yields are we?).

A tasting of inexpensive Spanish and Portuguese Reds

I am constantly being asked what wines under $10 best and most consistently represent outstanding value.  In the search for inexpensive wines imbued with regional as well as varietal distinctiveness and ripe, concentrated fruit, blindly buying into Spanish reds will rarely prove disastrous.  Certainly there are other players in the value game, and while, for example, Argentina's Malbecs, Australia's Shiraz and wines from the Cotes du Rhone at this price level can be genuine and delicious, Spain's value-priced wines more often hail from old-vine parcels of indigenous varieties (a number of them found almost nowhere else in the world) that frequently translate to a more distinctively unique drinking experience and stratospheric quality/price ratio.  Nor do readers need to focus on only a few regions, as household appellation names like Rioja and Rias Baixas are equally reliable sources of underpriced wines as emerging regions like cool-climate Bierzo (where Mencia thrives), Jumilla (focus on Monastrell-based reds), and Ribera Sacra (another hotbed for the Mencia grape) to mention only a few.  In fact, only in the northeasterly region of Priorat will readers consistently find wines frequently carrying a retail price of $30 or more, and while these wines will not be the focus of this article, Priorat's old-vine Grenache and Carignan blends can be captivating, and, in a number of cases, revelatory.

Recently, I blindly purchased four close-out priced reds from Spain and Portugal, ignoring vintage, region, and grape variety.  While I don't suggest this as a buying strategy, the results of this tasting only serve to confirm my belief that regionally-reflective, distinctive (not to mention delicious) Spanish and Portuguese wines are both widely available and generally represent excellent value.  Don't be afraid of seldom-encountered appellation names, obscure varieties or bland, uninteresting labeling practices.  These marketing impediments embody the very reasons that prices remain so pitifully low.

Note: Wines are scored in a range to denote an unofficial score as they were shown alongside the following simply prepared but delicious meal: pan-seared filet mignon, sauteed carrots and zucchini, and roasted fingerling potatoes.  

2006 Castillo Real Bullas Monastrell (83-85 points) - This has an attractively spicy character, with firm, slightly austere tannins that open to reveal a core of fruit that dries out with air.  Better two years ago, still drinkable.  100% Monastrell. 

2007 Domaines Francois Lurton Duoro Barco (84-86 points) - Ripe and darkly fruited, there is a good deal to like here, from the soy-tinged aromatics to the generous, caressing finish.  A solid effort.  Better with soy-marinated pork or chicken.  Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz hailing from Portugal most renowned appellation, the Duoro.

2008 Casa Gualda Tempranillo (84-86 points) - This is exactly what I was hoping for when I purchased this lineup.  Astonishingly direct, vivid aromas of fennel bulb and fresh blueberries emenate from the glass, while the palate faithfully echoes the character of its bouquet.  Not the last word in complexity by any means, but at this price point the wine's sheer self-confidence and forward personality must be considered virtues.  Try it with a pan-roasted pork chop served alongside sauteed fennel and shiitakes.  100% Tempranillo.

2009 Vina Borgia Campo de Borja (82-85 points) - Sweet cherries and fresh herbs mark a soft, supple entry to a palate profile where bright cherries and an unadorned freshness hold sway.  Clipped finish. Chilled for 15 minutes, this would make nice foil for spicy Chicken Fajitas.  100% Grenache fermented and aged exclusively in tank.

2009 O'Reilly's Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, Washington State

85               Drink now-2012               $13, QPR index - 6.5

The 2009 Pinot Gris disperses aromas of florist's shop, ripe pears and melon. The palate reveals a slightly oily texture as well as the requisite acidity to suggest its rightful home at the dinner table, and while definition becomes quite murky on the back end, this is quite pleasant.  Its straightforward, fresh fruitedness will be best appreciated over the next year.

2007 Pasquale Pelissero Barbaresco, Bricco san Giuliano, Piedmont, Italy

90               Drink now-2017               $25, QPR index - 3.6

Open-textured, warm and radiant, the 2007 Bricco San Giuliano is the estate's top wine vinified from Giorgio Pelissero's oldest vineyard parcels.  This soft, seductive Barbaresco is possessed of elegance, sweet spices, a touch of tar, sweet wild strawberry, and ripe cherries all rendered with beautiful cohesiveness due to healthy acid levels.  This is already on call to deliver quite generously, though there is room to improve a touch (though not significantly) with another two years in the cellar.  A modern approach to winemaking prevails at this address with noteworthy results, and the Bricco san Giuliano is a particularly excellent choice in restaurants or in purchase-and-pop situations.

2008 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, Valle Isarco, Alto-Adige, Italy

88               Drink now-2013               $22, QPR index - 4.0

Lime and peach inform the nose of the 2008 Kerner, a bright, flinty white which finds just enough acidity to balance its plump, juicy fruit.  The equilibrium and refreshment offered here are enough to warrant recommendation, and a lengthy finish and minerally aftertaste may be considered gratis.

Kerner is a descendent of Riesling which finds its fullest expression in the rugged terroir of the Valle Isarco, the home to the most northerly Vitis vinifera plantings in Italy.  Like most of Alto-Adige, production Valle Isarco is dominated by white varieties, with Abbazia di Novacella one of a number of producers whose perfumed, delicate and delicious offerings are well worth discovering.  Here, wines are marked by elevated, cleansing acidities due to a cool climate and the majority of producers produce pure, vivid wines that show no wood influence whatsoever.  Add to that gracious alcohol levels, and all the pieces are in place for profoundly food-friendly wines. Indeed, varietal wines made from Sauvignon and Kerner (among a number of other grapes, many of them indigenous) are sure to prove fabulously versatile at the table, marrying memorably with dishes ranging from oven-roasted chicken to more delicate seafood preparations.

Harvey's Cream Sherry, Spain

85               Drink n/a               $15, QPR index - 5.7

Far and away the most popular Sherry in the world, the Harvey's Cream shows abundant roasted nut aromas, with secondary nuances of carmel and browned butter.  Toasty and hearty on the palate, this versatile, full-bodied sherry possesses low acidity, a plush mouthfeel, medium sweetness as well as classic and recognizable Cream Sherry typicity.  It will not gain additional complexity in the bottle so waiting is unnecessary, and this label's wide availability, simple charms and affordability make it a solid option in Cream Sherry, particularly in colder months.

2007 M and D Phillips, 7 Deadly Zins, Lodi, California

89               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.9

The 2007 Zinfandel is produced from sourced fruit, and displays aromatics redolent of black pepper and grilled meats together with ripe cherries and raspberries.  Here is a jammy, briery, savory, full-bodied wine with lots of sharp acidity and aggressive tannins, which, together with the notable fruit intensity, amount to a broad, virile, potent offering. The finish is marked by a drawn out, slowly yielding note of black pepper.  This is an excellent value and offers a great deal of flavor for the money.

2006 Ramey Syrah "Shanel Vineyard," Sonoma Coast, California

91               Drink 2014-2020               $38, QPR index - 2.4

The 2006 Shanel Vineyard Syrah weighs in at a lofty 15% alcohol and exhibits an exotic nose dominated by smoke and game, with earthy dark fruit and black pepper playing supporting roles.  (Like the 2007 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay tasted a few days ago (96 points), there is almost no perceivable oak on the nose.)  Today, the wine's formidable, firm tannins prove difficult and bottle age will be necessary to add a bit of weight to the mid-palate as well as bleed some tannin.  If you are drinking this well in advance of the projected maturity window, decanting is absolutely necessary.

I was eager to tear open this bottle after the revelation that was the 2007 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay.  Clearly, the Ramey style could be categorized as one that prizes above all else impressive, pure aromatics, unmanipulated varietal character as well as freshness due to hands-off winemaking.  If you think that California wines are all over manipulated, oaky and monolithic...try David Ramey's wines!  Working with superbly situated vineyard sites, Ramey consistently harvests healthy, ripe fruit and skillfully presides over transformations into wines of clarity, depth and distinctiveness.  After just these two bottles, is clear that the vineyard-designated Chardonnays and Syrahs are wines built for patient consumers, and I suspect that this Syrah will prove much more endearing in a couple years' time.  That being said, I honestly expected more here, although the ensuing score reflects the wine's strengths today and an informed optimism for its future.

2007 St.-Cosme Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley, France

93               Drink now-2032               $50, QPR index - 1.8

The saturated ruby/purple 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape, from purchased fruit comprised of 50% Grenache, 30% percent Mouvedre and the rest Syrah and Counoise, sends up aromatic notions of crushed rocks, spice box, incense, pepper and bushels of red fruits.  It possesses admirable purity, a silky mouthfeel, and a lively, sophisticated texture as well as excellent length.  This well-endowed beauty has plenty of vibrant acidity to ensure pleasurable short term consumption, although it needs several more years to strike a more dramatic balance between its fruit and structure and to allow for the emergence of other textural dimension and nuance.  It will drink well for two decades if not longer.

Louis Barruol, the man behind Chateau de Saint-Cosme, has been on fire as of late and consistently presents an outstanding portfolio of wines.  Most noteworthy are his top offerings from Cote Rotie ($75) and Chateauneuf du Pape ($50), while the widely availble Cotes-du Rhone ($15) and Little James series ($13) leave little to be desired.  The latter is a multi-vintage blend of almost entirely Grenache, some of which sees carbonic maceration.  The Cotes-du-Rhone (2010 previously reviewed, 87 points) is a perennial best-buy as it tends to show fabulously well out of bottle, seldom shows any hard edges and in most vintages has the capacity to actually improve in bottle.

For his Chateauneuf du Pape, Barruol prefers second use or older barrels, promoting a candid expression of terroir.  While he has a track record for producing moving wines even in challenging vintages (see his 2008 Gigondas for confirmation on this account), it is in such outstanding years as 2005 and 2007 that Barruol is able to transform his raw materials into truly outstanding, and indeed, world class wines.  Draconian selectivity at the chateau level, obsessive hands-on vineyard management practices along with patient and informed elevage are the hallmarks of Barruol's genius.  As I have stated elsewhere, Barruol along with Marcel Guigal at Guigal are the two most successful negociants in the Rhone, or anywhere on the planet for that matter.

Finally, mention must be made of Cosme's labeling practices.  The only estate vineyards are in Gigondas (a tiny appellation northeast of Chateauneuf du Pape in the southern Rhone), so these cuvees are thus bottled under the Chateau de Saint-Cosme label.  The rest of their portfolio is vinified from grapes purchased under Barruol's highly selective watch, and those wines are simply labeled Saint-Cosme.