A note from the author:

2 August 2012: I've signed on to author a blog for wine retailer Winenabber.com. Check it out at nabberjabber.wordpress.com




Closing in on one year blogging with you, and things are astir. I must begin by graciously thanking each of you for allowing my thoughts and reflections on wine to be a small part of your lives. I truly consider your willingness to value and trust my own impressions a humbling privilege.


For those new to my writing (and I'm enormously excited by the sheer quantity of new readers!), I would like to state simply the foundational belief that informs every facet of my professional career: If you choose to approach wine with an open mind it will provide you unique and genuinely rare beauty and enrich your life.


My hope with this blog is that I nudge you further into a life with wine and that the wines I recommend provide you ongoing pleasure. I believe strongly that living with wine is much better than living without it. With that said, when I began my professional career several years ago it was incredible how much I valued what other wine writers had to say about the wines I drank. I couldn't have imagined how quickly I would grow to so deeply cherish and nurture and passionately express my own feelings.


If you've read this far and feel worried that you can't know anything, that your palate lacks sophistication and precision, or that you should have known by now if you had a passion for the juice, let me say this: forget that forever. Trust your palate and your own impressions. Seriously. Lose the "know-nothing" doctrine and suddenly, instantly, new and astonishingly authentic pleasures will appear before you. This is True. Wine has enriched the life of literally every person I know who hasn't arbitrarily pushed back at it.


How can anyone change directions so quickly? My advice is to habitualize clear mindedness and be attentive. I call this "productive concentration." "Productive" because one is intellectually rewarded for patience and focused reflection. If we trust our own impressions and are willing to remain honest with ourselves, and if new experiences force us to rethink or even abandon our previous positions , and if our views and beliefs remain fluid and syncretic and difficult to neatly articulate, then I say all the better. Not to mention how much more interesting.


In a sense, experiencing and enjoying great wine is much easier than this approach may initially appear. After all, drinking wine is simple. Wine enters our glass, our nostrils, our mouth, our belly. And, hopefully, this sequence is remarkably enjoyable and merits much repeating. But inside of each of us is a certain place, some deepest part of our being, a part which no other animal that has ever lived on this planet has possessed, an indescribably deep and meaningful well where our most ineffably beautiful humanity finds repose. And wine goes there, too.


A dear friend posed the question recently, "Can you put into words the experience of tasting great wine?" I thought about the question for a minute, and thought about how my favorite wines have made me feel. I responded, "Experiencing great wine is like scratching some gargantuan itch you never knew you had." Wine expands our consciousness, and, often, dramatically alters our perception of what was already there. Wine asks us to spend time with ourselves, know ourselves, makes us feel a certain way, and gives us something beautiful to reflect on.


I am certain that the best approach to both life and one's craft is to talk to people, listen intently, then reflect and figure out how to open new and better avenues of meaningful communication. There is no objective guide to wine writing. Regardless, one finds one's way. And, I think, better is the way that most often leads oneself and others toward distinctive deliciousness, authentic and meaningful experiences, and a heightened awareness of beauty in our world.


In the end, there are only two questions one needs to entertain in evaluating a particular wine. (The third is actually unessential but, I find, meaningful):


1) Is this wine beautiful?

2) How does this wine make me feel?

3) What is being said and how is it being said?


Our world is crowded and moves quickly. Wine begs for another approach. Wine is inherently needy: it admittedly asks much of us. To appreciate wine, we must choose participation over spectation. The wine lover's life is a journey that slowly and unexpectedly reveals an ever greater awareness of what really speaks to us as a human being. That something is one's own sense of and search for the beautiful that, I sincerely hope, increasingly quenches its thirst through this astonishingly splendid miracle of liquidity.


A special mention of thanks to family, friends and guests for their support and continued interest in the world of wine.

May your exploration of wine be pleasurable and your glass remain (at least) half full,


Jason Jacobeit


Scores - Scores are my subjective analysis of the inherent qualities of a wine with considerations made for vintage-specific typicity, overall balance, and, where applicable, ageability.


As for the numerical scores themselves, use this adumbrated guide as a suitable stand-in for objective precision:

Below 80 Wines are flawed in some respect. Ultimately, these efforts will not merit recommendation.

80-84 A wine without overt technical flaws, but lacking distinctive or exciting aromas and flavors. Modern winemaking allows for an ocean of bulk wine production the results of which often fall within this range.

85-89 Solidly constructed, varietally accurate and most importantly, delicious wine. These are usually terrific table wines and often define the sweet spot for value.

90-94 Engaging and complex, wines in this range are exceptionally balanced. Knockout juice.

95-100 Wines of impeccable harmony, precision and depth. The apotheosis of the art of winemaking, wines here are beautifully crafted, thrilling and emotional.

Pricing - prices provided in reviews are generally release prices unless dramatically altered. When the latter is the case, it will be specified.

Quality/Price Ratio (QPR) - The QPR index will be an excellent way to navigate a large number of reviews quickly and efficiently. That said, I strongly suggest that particular regions and, where further differention is possible, varietal wines and blends be evaluated separately and on their own terms.
For example, many Spanish regions produce remarkably concentrated grapes from old vines that are consistently vinified into tasty, value-priced wines. The QPR range for these wines will, therefore, be relatively high. Contrastingly, Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont are more difficult to consistently ripen and vinify, production is more stringently controlled and the wines, generally speaking, more internationally sought. It is therefore nearly impossible to find varietal Nebbiolo, whether Barolo, Barbaresco or declassified crop, that delivers outstanding quality at under $20. The Piedmontese QPR index will thus be lower relative to their previously sketched Spanish counterparts. In the end, initiated readers will make wise consumer choices based on a variety of factors, including an understanding of the broader contours of the wine market.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Baker Distributing Private Tasting , 29 February 2012

I get a number of questions about my tasting notes, and how initial impressions eventually become fleshed out into a published score.  In the interest of full disclosure, the average tasting note takes about 12-15 minutes to craft.  First, there are raw sensorial impressions, which are recorded associatively and uncritically; when possible, I will revisit a wine an hour or so later to make sure my initial reaction is a candid and representative snapshot of a given wine's character; finally, I take a few minutes to reflect on a wine's potential with food, as well its chances of improving through skilled and attentive cellaring.  Occasionally, I like to publish tasting notes before they have been heavily edited and remain embryonic and primary.  What follows here are first impressions from a private tasting with Baker Dristributing.  During the tasting, many of these wines were set aside and tasted blind later to assure accuracy as well as the legitimacy of my projections.  Under blind circumstances, I correctly identified and ascribed an identical score to each wine, making these notes worthy of taking final form.   

2009 Louis Michel & Fils Chablis (85)

-chalky minerals, composed stone fruits; lacks concentration and focus on the palate, rounded and fleshy but not surprising given the vintage; tropical and melony; textured and reasonably balanced; voluminous 

2009 Macon-Uchizy Les Maranches (82)

-peach, green apple, flowers; forgettable palate, unfocused again and monolithic…yields are simply too high, diluted

2010 Chateau Fage Graves de Vayres (82)

extraordinarily unpleasant nose; volatile and "chemically altered"; very low in acid, lack of balance = flabby, insipid, short, uninteresting

2007 Celeste (88+)

-sweet black cherries, tobacco, chocolate, hints at game with air; mid-weight and lush; nice finish, doesn't try to do too much, unpretentious and stays within itself; a silky, seamless style that is showing beautifully now 

2006 Gravier Figeac (86)

-hints at prunes and bacon fat, worn leather, there is definitely some oak here; palate conveys St. Emilion typicity, though with mostly overripe Merlot character

2006 La Couronne (83)

-earthy minerals initially (!), herbs, a touch stalky and vegetal on the nose, but not overdone; another overripe, hot messy palate, surprising given the deliciousness of the 2005; the fruit is cooked and not fresh, lots of oak and very dry

2008 Deep Sea Central Coast Red (84)  

-forest floor/underbrush, crushed overripe blackberries, but not stewed; a big, massive, pillowy effort with fine-grained tannins; candied on the palate and easydrinking; not a fresh style; the "big fruit" crowd will line up for this

2008 Penfolds bin 207 Cabernet Sauvignon (82?)

-fresh mint, icebreakers gum, chocolate, like a chocolate mint ice cream cake from baskin robins…just no fruit whatsoever…a lot of people will like that style, i'm just not one of them

2009 Penfold bin 128 Shiraz (84?)

-charred meats, almost brown sauceesque, with absolutely no fruit on the nose, rosemary; more sappy than the cabernet, lots of oak, savory and almost animal-like...notes of blood and earth…where is the fruit, and what makes this delicious or fun to drink?

2010 Penfold Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre (81)

-chocolate, plums and oak, rich, syrupy, simple and not what I like about wine AT ALL

2005 Larose-Trintaudon (84)

-satisfyingly ripe despite the herbs and leathery component; deep, nearly layered, with enough fruit despite the oak and herbal pungency, hints at black olives toward the back end; cassis and oaky in the end with a little staying power although the aftertase is unfriendly

2009 Chocolate Block South Africa (90)

fresh fennel, lavender, blue fruits, reasonably composed but not exactly a shining example of clarity; a much better palate, licorice-tinged cleanly ripe fruits and welcome intensity and grace, seamless on the back end, rather lengthy; shows lovely balance, there is plenty of fruit and a touch of savory depth; wine of the day

Sunday, February 26, 2012

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose Cuvee de la Pompadour, Carneros, California

93               Drink now-2015+              $30, QPR index - 3.1

The salmon-hued Domaine Carneros Brut Rose (about 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay) is absolutely gorgeous.  Extraordinarily fresh aromatics emerge from the glass that suggest fresh strawberries, sweet scallops, and biscuits.  A luxuriously opulent mousse frames a massive, soft, rich, buoyant, creamy midpalate that oozes red berries and a stony salinity that culminate in a long, refreshing, and expressive finish.  A longtime favorite, this is a brilliant achievement (and value) from Eileen Crane and her team.  Bravo!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

2009 Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, Roussillon, France

89               Drink now-2014               $14, QPR index - 6.4

Value-oriented readers should be sure to find the 2009 Cotes du Rousillon Villages bottling.  Aromas of crushed stones, minerals and sweetly ripe blue and blacker fruits come together nicely in a pliant, yielding style.  Notes of sweet herbs and coffee mark a voluminous finish that introduces somewhat coarse, drying tannins.  While this isn't a squeaky clean, spit-polished effort, the radiance and mineral depth here must certainly be counted as virtues.  Enjoy this outstanding value over the next three years.  Grenache, Syrah, and old bush-vine Carignan, harvested by hand and bottled without fining or filtration.

Monday, February 13, 2012

2009 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha, "Tres Picos," Campo de Borja, Spain

90               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 6.0

Although I would certainly have mistaken it for an immensely enjoyable Australian Shiraz blind, the 2009 Tres Picos is a deep, rich, layered Garnacha.  With aromas of ripe blueberries, minerals, lavender, and hints of pepper and black cherries, this powerful, sexy wine overdelivers in a big way.  The palate is densely packed with copious quantities of silky fruit, spice, and earthy elements, all wrapped in a remarkably sleek package considering the sheer material present here.  In the end, this pleasure-bent offering is just plain delicious.  Buy and drink it by the case.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

2008 Raul Perez Mencia, "Ultreia de Valtuille," Bierzo, Spain

90               Drink now-2015               $75, QPR index - 1.2

A single-vineyard cuvee with production hovering around 315 cases, the 2008 Ultreia de Valtuille is announced by a deep bluish/purple color and scents that hint at prunes, smoky dark red fruits, underbrush, and incense.  On the palate, the wine is a torrent of forest floor, blueberry, darker fruits, and smoke delivered in a fluid, seamless style, and distinguished further by a very good sense of balance, filigree tannins, and excellent natural acidity.  The Ultreia de Valtuille vineyard is located in cool-climate Bierzo in northwest Spain, and is composed of primarily sandy soils with a high incidence of small river stones.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, California

91               Drink now-2018               $50, QPR index - 1.8

The 2005 Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir opens to reveal a composed bouquet of smoke, flowers, and plums, followed by a gorgeous tapestry of sweet blue/blacker fruits and subtle spices as well as a distinctive meatiness.  This is really laid back and old-world in the end, with fine-tuned acidity, excellent definition and freshness, and a beautiful sense of proportion.  It is drinking well now, and will continue to age on balance.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

2006 Mount Eden Chardonnay, "Estate," Santa Cruz Mountains, California

94               Drink now-2027               $50, QPR index - 1.9

In 2006, the Estate Chardonnay possesses a deep golden hue and boasts a staggeringly complex perfume of mushrooms, buttered citrus, honeyed/carmelized peaches, flowers blossoms, and seductive, sexy, integrated oaky nuances.  What follows is a towering, oily, intense wine that offers layers of articulate fruit, honey, flowers, and buttered toast in a style that feels more elegant and understated than other recent vintages.  Another incredible effort from one of California's strongest and most consistent producers of ultra-premium, ageworthy Chardonnay.  Skilled cellaring will yield fascinating evolution over the next decade and a half.

Friday, February 3, 2012

2010 Chateau Pesquie Cotes de Ventoux, Terrasses, Rhone Valley, France

88               Drink now-2015               $14, QPR index - 6.3

The 2010 Terrases is a vibrant wine that exudes tart red currant, wild cherry, spice, and floral character.  I am impressed with the balance, intensity, distinctiveness, and overall polish present here, especially at this price point.  Moreover, the wine develops nicely in the glass, furthering its initial aromatically convincing argument as an overachiever.  I expect it will reward attentive cellaring for three years, perhaps longer.