2002 Arcadian Syrah, "Sleepy Hollow Vineyard," Santa Lucia Highlands, California

95               Drink now-2018               $50, QPR index - 1.9

I have had four opportunities to taste this magnificent Syrah, and each experience has been indelibly etched into my consciousness.  Now at full maturity, this maddeningly gorgeous wine boasts aromatics redolent of balsamic, sweet earth, cherries simmered in liqueur, and roasted meat.  Pure, textured, and incredibly detailed and finessed, this is a wine that delights both the intellect and senses.  It is everything (and more!) that readers might expect to find in an impeccably made, well-cellared example of cool-climate Syrah.  Honestly, I feel more humbled and entirely awed than anything else at the moment.

2002 Chateau La Grave a Pomerol, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

87               Drink now-2013               $35, QPR index - 2.5

Readers holding bottles, or in proximity to a good restaurant wine list, will want to check in on the 2002 La Grave a Pomerol.  A fully mature wine, this dark ruby/purple effort offers scents of dark cherries, herbs (primarily in the guise of sage and rosemary), and shiitake mushroom/damp cellar that gain flesh and sweetness with air.  It is far from possessing spectral complexity, but is a pleasant, easy-drinking, food-friendly effort from winemaker Christian Moueix that should continue to drink well for another 18 months.

2006 Guido Porro Barolo, Lazzairasco, Serralunga, Piedmont, Italy

92               Drink 2015-2035               $35, QPR index - 2.6

Porro's 2006 Lazzairasco (from a low swath of the Lazzarito cru in Serralunga) amounts to a winemaking tour de force.  An impossibly lovely perfume of sweet red cherries, flowers, red licorice, and sweet earth emerge with air. At the time, this remains tight and potently structured, though the freshness and finesse that emerge with air provide a glimpse of what the promising future holds.  Seriously, is this the single best value in Barolo?  Hold until 2015 or allow at least a couple hours' decanting.  Beware, this stuff will haunt your dreams.  Bravo!

2002 Cristom Pinot Noir, "Eileen Vineyard," Willamette Valley, Oregon

89               Drink now-2020               $50, QPR index - 1.8


Graphite, pencil lead, and parched soil dominate the nose of this savory, broad, complex 2002.  Both on the nose and in the mouth, however, the fruit remains buried and backward.  Not that this Pinot is ungiving, as there is a certain openness and generosity on the palate, as well as dense flavors of green pepper, mint, and rather muted dark berry fruits, with earthy tannins framing the finish with eloquence and poise.  A slightly awkward adolescent phase prevails at the moment, though my experience with this estate suggests that eventually this will emerge with compelling force and class (in which case the score would be subject, perhaps, to revision).  In the meantime, I'd opt to pair this with grilled fare seasoned generously with pepper and fresh herbs to tame the wine's savor, herbaceousness, and tannin.

2005 Cristom Pinot Noir, "Louise Vineyard," Willamette Valley, Oregon9

93               Drink now-2022               $50, QPR index - 1.9

The 2005 Pinot Noir Louise Vineyard is possessed of an intense perfume suggesting ripe black fruits, especially currants, as well as a streak of charred meats.  The palate conveys a dramatic tension between tart fruits (red/blackcurrants) and richness in the form of sweet oak and chocolate.  Cristom's recognizably tender style is reflected in the wine's disarming, soft beauty and mouthcoating persistence, as notes of chocolate and flowers persist nicely in this Pinot's balanced, seamless finish.  There is prodigious substance and sheer quantity of raw materials packaged here for a sometimes slight vintage, and plenty of balance to suggest at least another decade of rapturous drinking.

Steve Doerner continues to skillfully render desert-island Pinot Noirs in his picturesque vineyard sites in the Eola-Amity Hills of the Willamette Valley.  Above all, these are wines that require a mimimum of four years or more on the cork for their tender, beatific virtues to really gain traction.  So much could be said to substantiate my belief that these are amongst the greatest wines being made anywhere on the planet, though it may simply suffice to describe these wines as immaculate, impossibly charming, and immensely characterful.  Recent tastings of bottles from the early days of the estate (mid-1990s) only confirm that the balance and substance of Doerner's wines makes them worthy candidates for significant yet attentive cellaring.  "Attentive," because it would be a shame to miss the freshness, virility, and drama of these wines between the ages of 6-10, or before they achieve full maturity.    

Gimonnet NV Brut, 1er Cru Cuis, Cotes des Blancs, Champagne, France

92               Drink now-2015               $45, QPR index - 2.0

This review applies to the September 2011 disgorgement.  Impressions of chalk, liquid minerals, chamomile, and orchard fruits emanate from this expressive, composed Blanc de Blancs.  Combines flavor interest and genuine excitement in the mouth, as the juicy quince, Szechuan pepper, brilliant acidity, and wonderful sense of proportion come together with truly breathtaking beauty.  Perhaps the strongest rendition I've encountered of this consistently outstanding cuvee, which isn't entirely surprising, considering that so much balance and penetrating florality of the base 2008 vintage come through here.  The finishing cling, lift, and energy are remarkable in any context, though more appreciated given the price point.  The new standard bearer for NV?

2010 Hiedler Gruner Veltliner, "Loss," Kamptal, Austria

91               Drink now-2018               $16, QPR index - 5.7

In nearly every vintage Ludwig Hiedler's "Loss" bottling is a standout, though the 2010 is positively dazzling.  White flowers, freshly chopped chives, dried apricots, and mango effortlessly flow from this crisp, vigorous white, while a core of bright acids lends crystalline aromatic focus as well as incredible freshness and overall appeal.  The palate is even better, revealing ripe tropical fruits detailed with hints of white pepper and cumin.  This elegant, streamlined Gruner is delicious and insanely drinkable, which you can do lots of at 11.5% alcohol.  Be sure to buy 3 more bottles than you expect you'll need!  Certainly, this takes its place among the great white wine values in the world.  Bravo!

2008 Hiedler Gruner Veltliner, "Maximum," Kamptal, Austria

92               Drink now-2022               $40, QPR index - 2.3

Hiedler's wines stand out among even their more distinguished peers in that they seemingly always possess an extra dimension of richness and body.  A stunning, smiling nose of sorrel and cool herbs, lemon oil with some tropical fruits as well; with air, beeswax and chamomile provide an intriguing counterpoint to the wine's more varietal fruit qualities.  What I love most is a certain aromatic elusiveness as certain aromas seem to appear, disappear, then reappear.  On the palate, the wine is ripe and honeyed, with lemon and beeswax flavors that melt into white chocolate and thyme on the finish.  Drink this monumentally structured, savory, and impeccably balanced wine over the next decade.  This is a glorious achievement from Ludwig Hiedler!

2008 Borgogno Barbera d'Asti Superiore, Piedmont, Italy

87               Drink now-2013               $20, QPR index - 4.4

The 2008 Barbera d'Asti Superiore displays a lovely caressing fleshiness in its expression of black raspberries, rust/copper penny and licorice.  In the end, this modern-styled red is a bit generic, with oak certainly evident on the palate, yet the style doesn't completely distract one from the wine's pleasant tastiness.  Just enough Barbera character and Piedmontese identity seep through to make this a reliable mealtime standby.

NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne, "Cuvee Ste. Anne," Merfy, Champagne, France

87               Drink now-2013               $40, QPR index - 2.2

This review applies to the late 2011 disgorgement.  Alexandre Chartogne's latest NV release leads with aromas of whole wheat and rye bread, white chocolate, and baking spices.  A thick, mousey foam frames flavors that are pleasant, but could use greater definition and precision.  This strikes me as a wine that belongs at the table and would really be out of its element as a cocktail.  Balanced and interesting enough, but short on deliciousness.

2003 Chateau Haut-Beyzac Grand Vin, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, France

85               Drink now-2012               $35, QPR index - 2.4

As with a great many wines of this singular vintage, the window to drink the 2003 Chateau Haut-Beyzac Grand Vin is closing.  Also rather typically, the gritty, searing back-palate tannin of the vintage will simply never resolve itself.  Better, I think, to enjoy what voluptuous sensuality and inviting radiance of these wines remains.  Aromas of scorched earth, creme de cassis, cedar, and a hint of black cherry lead to a palate that shows caramel, toffee, smoke, bell pepper, and somewhat dried out dark fruits.  Uncouth, searing tannins and alcoholic heat frame the fleeting finish.  This is really a fascinating study, and rather valuable as a palate-training tool; vestiges remain of the precocious seductiveness of the vintage, yet, while potable, this is an ultimately prosaic libation.  I still think evanescence is the most salient word to describe this vintage, despite the protestations of self-annointed "modern" or "hedonistic" critics (read: blindly uncritical concentration-obsessed apologists).  Would that this "hedonism" were allied to flavors more complete, balanced, delicious, and intellectually substantial!

Private Tasting with Calmont Beverage at Jessica's Restaurant

Below are my notes from a private tasting at the restaurant with Chip Chapell and Chris Halberg of Calmont Beverage.  The pair continues to impress with their collective passion as well as their encyclopedic insight into their producers.  In short, they continue to uphold their reputation as wine professionals of the highest caliber.

NV Mercat Cava, Penedes, Spain (87)

This freshly scented Cava flows with the essence of honeydew melon, minerals, and mint.  This is an excellent value in high-quality sparkling wine, with 18 months of tirage, twice the 9 month required time investment for the producer.  The limpid, low-pressure character it possesses suggests happy partnerships with a variety of cuisines, from many seafoods to simply roasted white meats like chicken or pork.

2010 Boniface Apremont, Vin de Savoie, France (88)

This 100% Jacquere is singularly pure, fresh, and perfumed, with vibrant flavors of flower extracts and pears.  Wet river stones are a delightful valediction as the wine finishes as exuberantly smile-inducing as it began.  This is incredibly refreshing and remarkably fun to drink.


2011 Vietti Arneis, Roero, Piedmont, Italy (91)

Luca Currado's 2011 Arneis presents an aromatic whirlwind.  White peaches and almonds, tangy floral underpinnings and a slight mineral invocations.  The palate is light and delicious, mouthwatering, elegant, remaining lithe and seamless through the finish, where green apples and gentle spices lurk.  Good length.  A standout.

2010 Domaine Paul Mas Picpoul de Pinet, "Estate," Sud du France (88)

This charming varietal Picpoul offers distinctive, engaging flavors of candied lemon rind and smoke flanked by savory mineral depth.  Mid-weight, balanced, and graceful, this was a lovely accompaniment to a variety of cheese and olives.

2011 Bedrock Sauvignon, "Kick Ranch," Sonoma, California (92)

This was my first taste of a Moran Peterson Sauvignon; I was overcome with that rare fascination and excitement that accompanies genuine discovery.  In short, Sauvignon too seldom tastes this good, this completely satisfying.  Initially tight and linear, a short time in the glass reveals wonderfully integration, balance, and quite breathtaking beauty.  Sweet herbs and lilacs.  Luscious, leaning toward creamy on the palate, showing the (balanced) depth and richness of barrel-fermentation in a finessed, feminine style.  Cool and green: wintergreen and cool river stones in Autumn.  "Flirtatious" without crossing into superficiality.  This wants you to like it; I can't imagine it failing.

2010 Suore Cistercensi, "Coenobium," Lazio, Italy (92)

The wine of the day for its arresting and pleasing distinctiveness.  A wine I never wanted to stop smelling; I remember trying to crawl into the glass.  Anise, sweet malt, sea breeze, and flowers.  Even the palate is utterly perfumed, and there is a gentle tension created by the strawberry-orange flavors and the wine's polychrome savory depth.  Though provoking and delicious, and that's enough for me!

2010 Terradora di Paolo Greco di Tufo, Campania, Italy (86)

Wafts murmurs of vanilla extract poured over layers of peach and pear.  Simple and fresh on the attack, with enough acidity to lend the fruit focus.  A simple Greco that would be a nice pairing with textured first courses or, even better, fresh fruit salad.

2010 Domaine Des Huards Cheverny, Loire Valley, France (86)

The incisive cut and persistence of the 2010 Cheverny are an appropriate vessel for the array of tarragon, chervil, and green olives that emerge here, though I find this effort more distinctive than delicious.  85% Sauvignon and 15% Chardonnay.

2010 Domaine Lafage Cotes du Rousillon Blanc, "Cuvee Centenaire," Rousillon, France (90)

A composed, serene perfume of oyster shell and lemon curd give way to a voluminous, mouthfilling wine that combines richness with surprising cut and vivacity.  Substantial without excess weight, and delicious to boot.  Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Roussanne, and Macabeu.

2011 Chateau Valcombe Rose, Cotes du Ventoux, France (85)

Hmm, interesting.  Pepperoni and rose petals.  The palate turns sanguine and peachy in a lively, refreshing style.  I would have preferred greater clarity, especially on the foggy finish.  

2009 Domaine de Chateaumar, "Cuvee Vincent," Cotes du Rhone, France (85)

Roasted figs and raisin flavors, a slightly scorched nose.  An certain persistent herbaceousness seems not to belong, like an unwelcome spectator.  I can see others liking this.

2009 Fabre Montmayou Cabernet Sauvignon, Patagonia, Argentina (87)

The extroverted and tasty 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value.  Ripe red cherries, spices, and oak detonate in the mouth, showing more earthy and spice character with time in the glass.  Round, fresh, and showing terrific purity, this is a great weeknight table wine.

Wine and Food - Episode 6

Costello's Market Braised pork shoulder with peppers and papardelle ($10)

2003 Casanova della Spinetta Sassontino - (87) ~$50

I hosted a wine dinner this past week with the legendary Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta fame.  Giorgio's empire is stationed in Piedmont, with state of the art facilities in both Grinzane Cavour and Castagnole Lanza.  Over the last decade, the winery has expanded its reach to Tuscan Sangiovese, and now includes vineyard sites in some of Tuscany's most celebrated microclimates.  This bottle is one of a few gifts Giorgio so graciously sent my way after our dinner together.  

The 2003 Sassontino is Sangiovese in its most swarthy guise; notes of blackberries, tobacco, licorice and plenty of new oak.   Weighty, broad-shouldered, low-acid (does this really need to be said considering the vintage?).  The tannins aren't ornery yet aren't refined.  Seductively dark and mysterious on the nose, and, to be sure, tasty, yet lacking in real flavor depth or finishing cut.  A touch hot on the back end as well.  Typical for the vintage: thick and rustic, with a fleeting finish.  

The untamed, almost savagely intense flavors of the braised pork and the pliant texture of the pasta really help mitigate and pacify the wine's slightly gritty tannin, and lend a dimension of polish and grace that it lacks flying solo.  The food, likewise, finds a formidable wine pairing capable of matching its sheer size and scope, allowing each to coexist without either groping for the spotlight.  This amounts to a totally classic, completely hedonistic, fighting-fire-with-fire sort of pairing, and one that works beautifully.

Wine and Food - Episode 5

Slow oven-roasted leg of lamb with white truffle oil, thyme, rosemary, shallot, garlic, vine-ripened tomatoes (Prep time: 5 minutes, total time 2 hours 15 minutes) Cost: ~$25

2009 Domaine la Garrigue Vacqueyras - (90) ~$20

This is without question the best meal I have ever prepared wherein the prep time was literally less than five minutes.  The culinary philosophy here runs counter to that of the Bolognese from the last posting: the idea here is to roast each of the elements together, yet allow them to retain their own intrinsic flavor profile and tactile qualities.  This allows for a more diverse palate of colors for each diner to utilize once the meal is served.  There is no consistent flavor profile like the bolognese; rather, each bite is different, and each diner can emphasize and enjoy the flavor combinations they choose.

The lamb is rubbed with a beef bouillon cube that has been diluted in white truffle oil (about two ounces), then is placed fat-side down in a roasting pan.  The shallots (2) and the garlic bulbs (2) are simply halved and set in the four corners of the pan.  The vine-ripened tomatoes and a generous quantity of rosemary and thyme are simply set on top of the lamb.  Preheat the oven to 325 degrees, then roast for about an hour and a half. 

Set all ingredients on a serving platter and add water to the roasting pan to deglaze.  Transfer the water with the contents from the bottom of the pan into a sauce pan.  Add some chicken stock and fresh rosemary, and reduce to taste.  

I love pairing lamb leg with an ample, full-flavored wine from the Rhone.  The 2009 Vacqueyras from Domaine la Garrigue has really come together over the last year: now more forthcoming and giving, its fruit increasingly flanked by supporting details of licorice and sweet herbs.  From the perspective of purity, sheer fruit quality, deliciousness, and complexity, this producer is outclassed by very few.  Even better, prices remain exceedingly fair considering the quality and production is enough that you shouldn't have to look too hard to find it.

The garlic and the shallots tease at the bucolic underpinnings of the wine, while the tender lamb and succulent tomatoes help emphasize the ripe, glowing radiance of the fruit.  Really, a gorgeous tapestry of flavors mingle on the palate in a totally cohesive and convincing way.  A perfect partnering for a romantic occasion, with the total cost for the wine and food likely to remain around or under $50. 

Wine and Food - Episode 4

Since I spend so much free time mincing, chopping, and tracking the progress of reducing sauces, I've decided to occasionally share my experiences in the kitchen as well as highlight some of my more successful wine and food pairings outside the restaurant.  The following meal is incredibly simple to prepare, and the act of creating a classic Bolognese makes me feel as if I'm an acting participant in some timeless ritual in which I always feel somehow disarmingly humbled to be included.  The kind of experience that reminds one how small one is, how our own reality is only a small part and parcel embedded within our massive moving world; a wonderful chance to reflect on our own experiences within the context of the present as well as historically.  For the recipe remember I said "simple" as in easy, not quick.  Here, the flavors must mature and coalesce through long, uninterrupted simmering where low heat and complex, elemental ingredients magically transform into an extraordinary assemblage of deliciousness.    

Pasta alla Bolognese (Prep time: 10 minutes, total time: 2 hours) Cost: $25

2009 Ridge Lytton Springs Proprietary Red Wine - (90), $35

A classic ragu alla bolognese can be reduced with either white or red wine, the former often combining with heavy cream in a dizzyingly delicious display of richness and broad, intense flavors.  I prefer eliminating cream and reducing in red wine, as the earthiness of the carrot, onion, celery, and the salty savor of the meats remain more delineated and the sauce, in my opinion, more complex.  My family likes the red-wine version better, too. 

The recipe is simple.  Very finely chop one carrot, one celery stalk, and an onion.  Prepare a half pound of ground beef and a couple of ounces each of prosciutto and pancetta: emphasize or deemphasize these ingredients depending on how rich and savory you want the bolognese to turn out.  Over medium-heat, lightly saute everything listed above for about 15 minutes; things will take on color and begin to soften.  Then, add two cups of red wine and a table spoon of tomato paste diluted in a half cup of water.  Turn the heat to low and simmer, covered, for about an hour and forty five minutes.  Serve over al dente pasta.

Wine Pairing suggestion: Classic Piedmontese varietals, particularly robust versions of Barbera and lighter, fruit-forward, less serious versions of Nebbiolo are an obvious choice that rarely disappoint.  Having enjoyed their regional synergy many, many times before, however, I opted to pair the pasta with a Zinfandel blend from on of California's preeminent Zinfandel specialists, Ridge's Paul Draper.  The bright, incisive, spicy fruit (Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane) and the healthy, balanced personality of the vintage were a beautiful backdrop for the textured richness and bold flavors of the dish.  Choosing a wine to mirror the weight and intensity of the dish proved a beautiful, intelligent partnership.  When served with the pasta, the wine segued into spicy, black raspberry, and coffee tones that had been less obvious before dinner.  A beautiful match well worth discovering and sharing. 

NV Rene Geoffroy Brut, "Expression," Cumieres 1er Cru, Vallee de la Marne, Champagne, France

88               Drink now-2013               $50, QPR index - 1.8               

(This review applies to the July 2011 disgorgement).  High-toned scents of oyster shell, fresh lemon juice, and chalky minerals emerge from Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy's NV, here a blend of 70% 2008 fruit (primarily Pinot Noir and Meunier) with the rest 2007.  The bright florality, transparency, and elegance of 2008 are certainly on display here; it's an easy wine to approach, easy to understand.  While there isn't memorable depth or a particularly dynamic counterpoint between fruit, acidity, and minerality, there is a certain disarming charm that stems from the wine's undeniably extroverted deliciousness.  On the palate, this is more fun than engaging, and, at times, that's just what one needs.

2007 Heinrich Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria

91+               Drink now-2015               $23, QPR index - 4.0

The swarthy 2007 Blaufrankisch presents an aromatic array of game, leather, pain grille, and spicy blackberries; unmistakably varietal overtones: campfire/burning embers.  Beautifully balanced and lithe on the palate, with spice, licorice, and game flavors.  Ends with a well-mannered, composed finish that sails on for a long time.  First rate winemaking (from clearly low yields), and clean, pure, healthy fruit make this an absolute knock out, and, what's more, a tremendous value.  This is a brilliant achievement from Gernot Heinrich.

2009 Cristom Pinot Noir, Mt. Jefferson Cuvee, Willamette Valley, Oregon

89               Drink now-2016               $25, QPR index - 3.6

The 2009 Mt. Jefferson Cuvee owes its provenance to estate-grown fruit culled from the single vineyard wines (the "4 ladies") as well as some purchased fruit.  A warm, generous nose of rosemary and thyme, raspberries and pine precedes a gentle, silky entry onto the palate, revealing spicy and floral character as well as flavors of sweetly perfumed red fruits.  While mid-palate depth is lacking, the finish uncovers nuances of brown sugar and sweet herbs, though a bit of alcoholic heat shows itself as well.  This foresty, pleasant, savory effort is best consumed within its first four years of life.

Steve Doerner, the only winemaker in Cristom's nearly twenty year history, remains a positively reference-point producer for readers seeking complex, aromatic wines of incomparable aging potential.  Four vineyards planted exclusively to Pinot Noir are sprawled out around the estate itself; these are the Majorie, Jessie, Eileen, and Louise vineyards, from which vineyard-designated Pinots are produced each year (these are collectively and lovingly referred to as the "4 ladies").  The wines reveal an exceptional attention to detail in the vineyards as well as a patient, reflective, informed approach to winemaking.  Ideally, the Mt. Jefferson Cuvee should be consumed in the first 4-5 years of life, though in nearly all vintages, the vineyard-designated Pinots can effortlessly age for 15 years or more.  In addition to varietal Pinot, Doerner crafts noteworthy wines from estate-grown Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Syrah, although the latter two are produced in minuscule quantities.  For those who prefer elegant, focused, balanced, perfumed wines that partner beautifully with a variety of cuisines, the wines of Cristom should not be missed.

2009 Domaine de Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Southern Rhone Valley, France

92               Drink now-2018               $35, QPR index - 2.6

The oak and pear-scented 2009 Blanc is a glorious achievement.  Time in the glass brings a more complex perfume of vanilla, white chocolate, and nut oils.  Distinctive and alluring.  Voluptuous, balanced, and very long on the palate, the wine delivers layers of fresh, complex fruit which gives way to a finish laden with a mouthwatering wet-stone savor.  Plan on enjoying this classy, beautifully proportioned, sensually and intellectually satisfying beauty over the next four years.  Bravo!

2010 St. Urbans-hof Riesling Kabinett, Ockfener Bockstein, Saar Valley, Mosel, Germany

88               Drink 2013-2017               $20, QPR index - 4.4

The 2010 Riesling Kabinett surrenders a lovely fragrance that evokes lime, apples, and vanilla.  Aromatically, less "sunny" than the 2009 version.  What it lacks from the perspective of roundness and opulence, though, it makes up for via its precise, driven style.  The mineral qualities so often found here remain buried, for the time being, beneath a good deal of extract and primary fruit, especially for this Pradikat level.  But this is, after all, 2010!  On the palate, this is surprisingly fleet of foot and densely packed with citrus, apple, and peach notes.  The healthy acidity and a promisingly persistent finish augur well for the future.  I would wait another 18 months or so, then consider following this for at least three years.

NV Arnoud Margaine Champagne, Villers-Marmery 1er Cru, Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France

90               Drink now-2015               $50, QPR index - 1.8

This review applies to the 2011 disgorgement.  Based on the exceptionally flowery and refined 2008 vintage, this "entry-level" bottling is just stunning.  Green apples, graham cracker, flowers, and a lovely fragrance of sea-breeze emerge from this precociously sophisticated Champagne.  Literally, like smelling the surf off the ocean on a crisp, cool evening.  On entry, the wine reveals a gentle, foamy effervescence as well as flavors of peach, spice, and a pronounced, sexy florality.  Again, the latter component so distinctive and disarmingly beautiful and precise; like a flower petal was transported with the juice and took time to pause on the back palate.  Richly leesy and sensually caressing in the mouth; wonderfully comforting and reassuring: drinking this is like being embraced by, and embracing, a lover.

The lowish pressure of this bottling makes it inherently food-friendly, and is a perfect antidote for those who think bubbly is solely a wine for occasions.  I assure you, opening a bottle of Margaine is an occasion!

2010 Raptor Ridge Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon

89               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.9

The 2010 Pinot Gris is redolent of pear tart and cinnamon, while nuances of smoke and apple skin make an appearance with time in the glass.  The palate is medium-bodied, medium-low in acidity, and shows clear and delicious flavors of apples and exotic spices as well as a touch of pastry dough on the back end.  This version is less textured than the superb 2009, yet is generous and easy to see into: somehow familiar and comforting: "liquid soul food."  Perfect for a cool summer evening.

2009 Heidi Schrock Furmint, Rust, Burgenland, Austria

84               Drink now-2012               $20, QPR index - 4.2

The 2009 Furmint is at least a couple of notches below the high standards of this typically outstanding and fascinating producer stationed in eastern Austria.  A smudged and rather strange perfume of musk, veal stock, and yellow apples emerges from this atypical wine that is strikingly singular yet, in the end, not particularly sensually satisfying.  The palate is low in acidity and richly textured, though the flavors lack definition, grace, and beauty.  I would pair this with intensely flavored, robust foods, like a veal scallopini, where the savor and textured personality of the wine can be spotlighted and the unpleasant flavors overpowered.  

2006 Arcadian Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley, California

88               Drink now-2016               $20, QPR index - 4.4

The Syrah Santa Ynez is rendered from fruit that doesn't make it into the more prestigious (and expensive) single-vineyard bottlings.  What results is a fresher, more forward style of wine intended for early consumption.  The 2006 displays a spicy nose of horseradish, black pepper, and blueberries, followed by a  palate profile which remains characteristically austere for this producer, although the spice begins to build on the midpalate and flows in positively rhythmic waves toward the earth-filled finish (which literally tastes like dirt and horseradish).  This lean, compressed Syrah will impress fans of Joe Davis' style, and will likely win over those who favor "classically styled," wines from the northern Rhone.

Arcadian's Joe Davis tends to produce linear, low-alcohol, elegant wines very much intended for the table.  Many of Joe's wines, particularly the Syrahs and certain cuvees of Pinot Noir, really appreciate an informed food pairing, which potentially helps mitigate some of the austerity of the fruit and bring out the balanced elegance of the house style.  It merits mention that these wines greatly benefit from being opened far in advance of consumption, as they are not only terse and ungiving out of bottle, but can initially taste positively awkward and angular as well.  A polarizing producer to be sure!

2009 Walter Glatzer Blaufrankisch, Carnuntum, Austria

89               Drink now-2014               $16, QPR index - 5.6

A perennial best buy is the varietal Blaufrankisch from the Carnuntum's Walter Glatzer, an organic producer whose wines seem to reflect an ever greater confidence in and awareness of the potential of his vineyards.  In 2009, the pepper and earth-scented Blaufrankisch offers flavors of beef stock, leather, and darker fruits.  There is remarkable distinctiveness, purity, and balance that make it simply impossible to resist a second sip!  With air, the wine adds dimensions of cedar, licorice, and a more complex melange of spices.  This is a producer who deserves every discerning consumer's ardent attention, as Glatzer's wines offer much sensual and intellectual satisfaction at exceedingly reasonable prices.  Readers should be also sure to check out the estate's slender, attractively flowery whites as well as the terrific Zweigelt "Reidencuvee" bottling.

2007 La Spinetta Barbaresco Bordini, Piedmont, Italy

92               Drink 2015-2030               $50, QPR index - 1.8

Giorgio Rivetti's 2007 Barbaresco Bordini conveys aromatic notions of licorice, tobacco, sweet dark cherries, and hints of darker fruit.  In the mouth, this massive Nebbiolo reveals excellent freshness in a dense, voluminous style.  While this super-ripe, richly textured 2007 is still holding its cards and comes off a bit primary today, the wine's overall balance, silky tannins, and abundance of fresh acids augur well for the future.  As with all of the top 2007 Barbareschi, patience will be handsomely rewarded.

2007 Willi Brundlmayer Riesling, Zobinger Heiligenstein "Lyra," Kamptal, Austria

96+               Drink now-2032               $40, QPR index - 2.4

In 2007 the "Lyra" bottling is almost impossibly seductive.  A lovely mineral-rich perfume emerges from the glass and is followed by a round, almost oily palate that remains beautifully balanced through the saliva-inducing, mind-bogglingly delicious finish.  In the end, this is one of the greatest wines I have ever had the privilege to taste; consciousness-altering, desert island stuff here, with monumentally scaled flavors that remain reigned in and focused.  Luckily for those who own bottles, those flavors are of the highest quality imaginable!  A halycon, meditative, Zen-like effort.  At least two decades of gripping drinking are promised here.  Bravo!

Baker Distributing Private Tasting , 29 February 2012

I get a number of questions about my tasting notes, and how initial impressions eventually become fleshed out into a published score.  In the interest of full disclosure, the average tasting note takes about 12-15 minutes to craft.  First, there are raw sensorial impressions, which are recorded associatively and uncritically; when possible, I will revisit a wine an hour or so later to make sure my initial reaction is a candid and representative snapshot of a given wine's character; finally, I take a few minutes to reflect on a wine's potential with food, as well its chances of improving through skilled and attentive cellaring.  Occasionally, I like to publish tasting notes before they have been heavily edited and remain embryonic and primary.  What follows here are first impressions from a private tasting with Baker Dristributing.  During the tasting, many of these wines were set aside and tasted blind later to assure accuracy as well as the legitimacy of my projections.  Under blind circumstances, I correctly identified and ascribed an identical score to each wine, making these notes worthy of taking final form.   

2009 Louis Michel & Fils Chablis (85)

-chalky minerals, composed stone fruits; lacks concentration and focus on the palate, rounded and fleshy but not surprising given the vintage; tropical and melony; textured and reasonably balanced; voluminous 

2009 Macon-Uchizy Les Maranches (82)

-peach, green apple, flowers; forgettable palate, unfocused again and monolithic…yields are simply too high, diluted

2010 Chateau Fage Graves de Vayres (82)

extraordinarily unpleasant nose; volatile and "chemically altered"; very low in acid, lack of balance = flabby, insipid, short, uninteresting

2007 Celeste (88+)

-sweet black cherries, tobacco, chocolate, hints at game with air; mid-weight and lush; nice finish, doesn't try to do too much, unpretentious and stays within itself; a silky, seamless style that is showing beautifully now 

2006 Gravier Figeac (86)

-hints at prunes and bacon fat, worn leather, there is definitely some oak here; palate conveys St. Emilion typicity, though with mostly overripe Merlot character

2006 La Couronne (83)

-earthy minerals initially (!), herbs, a touch stalky and vegetal on the nose, but not overdone; another overripe, hot messy palate, surprising given the deliciousness of the 2005; the fruit is cooked and not fresh, lots of oak and very dry

2008 Deep Sea Central Coast Red (84)  

-forest floor/underbrush, crushed overripe blackberries, but not stewed; a big, massive, pillowy effort with fine-grained tannins; candied on the palate and easydrinking; not a fresh style; the "big fruit" crowd will line up for this

2008 Penfolds bin 207 Cabernet Sauvignon (82?)

-fresh mint, icebreakers gum, chocolate, like a chocolate mint ice cream cake from baskin robins…just no fruit whatsoever…a lot of people will like that style, i'm just not one of them

2009 Penfold bin 128 Shiraz (84?)

-charred meats, almost brown sauceesque, with absolutely no fruit on the nose, rosemary; more sappy than the cabernet, lots of oak, savory and almost animal-like...notes of blood and earth…where is the fruit, and what makes this delicious or fun to drink?

2010 Penfold Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre (81)

-chocolate, plums and oak, rich, syrupy, simple and not what I like about wine AT ALL

2005 Larose-Trintaudon (84)

-satisfyingly ripe despite the herbs and leathery component; deep, nearly layered, with enough fruit despite the oak and herbal pungency, hints at black olives toward the back end; cassis and oaky in the end with a little staying power although the aftertase is unfriendly

2009 Chocolate Block South Africa (90)

fresh fennel, lavender, blue fruits, reasonably composed but not exactly a shining example of clarity; a much better palate, licorice-tinged cleanly ripe fruits and welcome intensity and grace, seamless on the back end, rather lengthy; shows lovely balance, there is plenty of fruit and a touch of savory depth; wine of the day

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose Cuvee de la Pompadour, Carneros, California

93               Drink now-2015+              $30, QPR index - 3.1

The salmon-hued Domaine Carneros Brut Rose (about 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay) is absolutely gorgeous.  Extraordinarily fresh aromatics emerge from the glass that suggest fresh strawberries, sweet scallops, and biscuits.  A luxuriously opulent mousse frames a massive, soft, rich, buoyant, creamy midpalate that oozes red berries and a stony salinity that culminate in a long, refreshing, and expressive finish.  A longtime favorite, this is a brilliant achievement (and value) from Eileen Crane and her team.  Bravo!

2009 Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, Roussillon, France

89               Drink now-2014               $14, QPR index - 6.4

Value-oriented readers should be sure to find the 2009 Cotes du Rousillon Villages bottling.  Aromas of crushed stones, minerals and sweetly ripe blue and blacker fruits come together nicely in a pliant, yielding style.  Notes of sweet herbs and coffee mark a voluminous finish that introduces somewhat coarse, drying tannins.  While this isn't a squeaky clean, spit-polished effort, the radiance and mineral depth here must certainly be counted as virtues.  Enjoy this outstanding value over the next three years.  Grenache, Syrah, and old bush-vine Carignan, harvested by hand and bottled without fining or filtration.

2009 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha, "Tres Picos," Campo de Borja, Spain

90               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 6.0

Although I would certainly have mistaken it for an immensely enjoyable Australian Shiraz blind, the 2009 Tres Picos is a deep, rich, layered Garnacha.  With aromas of ripe blueberries, minerals, lavender, and hints of pepper and black cherries, this powerful, sexy wine overdelivers in a big way.  The palate is densely packed with copious quantities of silky fruit, spice, and earthy elements, all wrapped in a remarkably sleek package considering the sheer material present here.  In the end, this pleasure-bent offering is just plain delicious.  Buy and drink it by the case.

2008 Raul Perez Mencia, "Ultreia de Valtuille," Bierzo, Spain

90               Drink now-2015               $75, QPR index - 1.2

A single-vineyard cuvee with production hovering around 315 cases, the 2008 Ultreia de Valtuille is announced by a deep bluish/purple color and scents that hint at prunes, smoky dark red fruits, underbrush, and incense.  On the palate, the wine is a torrent of forest floor, blueberry, darker fruits, and smoke delivered in a fluid, seamless style, and distinguished further by a very good sense of balance, filigree tannins, and excellent natural acidity.  The Ultreia de Valtuille vineyard is located in cool-climate Bierzo in northwest Spain, and is composed of primarily sandy soils with a high incidence of small river stones.

2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, California

91               Drink now-2018               $50, QPR index - 1.8

The 2005 Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir opens to reveal a composed bouquet of smoke, flowers, and plums, followed by a gorgeous tapestry of sweet blue/blacker fruits and subtle spices as well as a distinctive meatiness.  This is really laid back and old-world in the end, with fine-tuned acidity, excellent definition and freshness, and a beautiful sense of proportion.  It is drinking well now, and will continue to age on balance.

2006 Mount Eden Chardonnay, "Estate," Santa Cruz Mountains, California

94               Drink now-2027               $50, QPR index - 1.9

In 2006, the Estate Chardonnay possesses a deep golden hue and boasts a staggeringly complex perfume of mushrooms, buttered citrus, honeyed/carmelized peaches, flowers blossoms, and seductive, sexy, integrated oaky nuances.  What follows is a towering, oily, intense wine that offers layers of articulate fruit, honey, flowers, and buttered toast in a style that feels more elegant and understated than other recent vintages.  Another incredible effort from one of California's strongest and most consistent producers of ultra-premium, ageworthy Chardonnay.  Skilled cellaring will yield fascinating evolution over the next decade and a half.

2010 Chateau Pesquie Cotes de Ventoux, Terrasses, Rhone Valley, France

88               Drink now-2015               $14, QPR index - 6.3

The 2010 Terrases is a vibrant wine that exudes tart red currant, wild cherry, spice, and floral character.  I am impressed with the balance, intensity, distinctiveness, and overall polish present here, especially at this price point.  Moreover, the wine develops nicely in the glass, furthering its initial aromatically convincing argument as an overachiever.  I expect it will reward attentive cellaring for three years, perhaps longer.

2009 Veramonte Pinot Noir, "Ritual," Casablanca Valley, Chile

84               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.6

Readers looking for broad, powerful styles of Pinot Noir may well enjoy this offering from Veramonte, which offers mocha, roasted beet, brine, pomegranate, and black cherries, silky tannins, low acidity, prominent flavors of oak, and a moderate-length, alcoholic finish.  I don't find this style intriguing.

2009 Georges Duboeuf Fleurie, Domaine des Quatre Vents, Beaujolais, France

91               Drink now-2013               $18, QPR index - 5.1

The Fleurie "Domaine des Quatre Vents" is drop-dead gorgeous in 2009.  This dark red, almost purplish wine registers effusive aromas that open to span the gamut between red and black fruits (though all of them singularly fresh!) as well as notes of black tea, mocha, and crushed rocks.  The palate is lively and thoroughly invigorating in its energetic expression of minerals, black tea, flowers and perfectly pitched, ripe fruit.  Altogether harmonious and infectiously drinkable, with considerable complexity and a capacity for thirst-quenching refreshment, all carried along by a long, lip-smacking, mineral finish.  I can see this wine outliving my drinking window, though I happen to prefer to enjoy Beaujolais in all its effusively aromatic, strapping, berry-fruited youth.  

2009 Patricia Green Pinot Noir Ana Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon

60               Drink now-2012               $35, QPR index - 1.7

The Pinot Noir Ana Vineyard leads with a bouquet of rust, lemongrass, beef carpaccio, and red berries, all heavily blanketed in leesy overtones.  Evidence of a flawed bottle and refermentation become obvious on an acidic, off-tasting palate rife with barnyard/fecal character and a CO2 spritz.  Bottling without fining or filtration always leaves the potential for problematic, live bottles, although the rewards of purely rendered and unmanipulated wines are well worth the occasional disappointment.  Regardless, I'd be wary purchasing other bottles of the 2009 considering the risk at this price point.

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy

87               Drink now-2014               $20, QPR index - 4.4

From one of the greatest "producers" in Barbaresco (the Produttori is a large-scaled cooperative of small growers), the 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo owes its provenance to young vines and juice that is left over from the flagship, typically reference-point Barbaresco bottling.  This dark ruby colored Nebbiolo exhibits straightforward details of cherries and minerals in a fragrant, almost perfumy, mid-weight style.  Here is a fairly priced, typical introduction to the Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont, though enthusiasts will likely join me in pointing out a somewhat superficial and largely one dimensional profile.  Further, this bottling lacks the firm, tense energy of most 2008s.

2008 Vietti Nebbiolo "Perbacco," Piedmont, Italy

91               Drink now-2022+               $25, QPR index - 3.6

In 2008 as always the Perbacco bottling is comprised of barrels culled from the Barolo Castiglione, this version showing a rich, dark crimson hue indicative of a long, cool vintage.  Out of the gate, a feminine nose of mint, pure red fruits, leather and licorice command the taster's attention, with a purity, persistence, and aromatic range that only Nebbiolo can provide.  The palate is medium-full with tremendous depth and concentration on the mid-palate, while a chorus of ripe cherries, citrus essences, and a provocative savory meatiness strike a breathtaking balance.  This should be the most versatile Perbacco at the table since the 2005.  For readers seeking value in Piedmontese Nebbiolo, the Perbacco may be in a class of its own!  Further, the 2008 should age gracefully for 10+ years.

2010 Dona Paula Malbec Estate, Mendoza, Argentina

88               Drink now-2013               $15, QPR index - 5.9

The 2010 estate-grown Malbec offers an enticing bouquet scented with black raspberries, figs, as well as a rush of lavender.  Warm red fruits flow onto the palate in a medium-bodied style that lacks the depth but not the richness of the 2009 bottling.  Juicy, plush, and an irresistibly pleasure-bent wine, this is another tremendous value from David Bonomi and the winemaking team at Vina Dona Paula that should offer prime drinking over the next 18 months.

2008 Martinelli Zinfandel, "Jackass Vineyard," Russian River Valley, California

91               Drink now-2015               $100, QPR index - .91

Arrestingly distinctive in its expression of strawberries in cream, leather, and aged tobacco, the 2008 Jackass Vineyard possesses a surprisingly pinkish hue as well as a potent combination of tactile richness, enormous concentration and extract, and zesty acidity, here combined with high results via a reflective, informed style of winemaking that manages to lend a high sense of equilibrium rare for such a massively-endowed wine.  Its 16.6% natural alcohol is deftly concealed beneath its sweet tannin and vivid red fruits, while the finish features a compelling interplay between spice, fruit, and cream elements, leaving an impression of whipped cream/roasted marshmallow in its wake.  Readers searching for heavyweight wines that push the limits of concentration and extraction are sure to find any work necessary in finding this wine quite worthwhile.

2008 Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett, "Blue Slate," Mosel, Germany

89               Drink now-2014               $22, QPR index - 4.0

The 2008 Kabinett "Blue Slate," offers loads of appeal in its attractive, fragrant, mid-weight personality, and articulate flavors of tangerines, citrus oils, and lanolin.  There is nice cut as the wine thrusts across the palate, with a mouthwatering finish that carries the impression of wet stones.  Like most 2008 Kabinett examples, the 2008 is ready to drink, and, in so doing, proves capable of providing its consumers manifold pleasure.

1998 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri, Southeastern Australia

93               Drink now-2018               $50, QPR index - 1.8

The 1998 is holding beautifully, and is showing notable articulation and, remarkably, a youthfully generous personality.  Considering that I just invested in a number of bottles, this is excellent news!  Out of the gate the 1998 displays warm, brambly dark red and blacker fruits, tobacco, milk chocolate, and sweet spices.  At its core, this is impressively endowed with sweetly ripe fruit, fresh acidity, and supple tannins that gain traction on the 30+ second finish.  Another eight years of prime drinking seem well within reach here, as it will continue to age on balance alone.  This is an awesome St. Henri from John Duval!

2008 Dona Paula Malbec/Shiraz Estate, Mendoza, Argentina

86               Drink 2012               $12, QPR index - 7.2

The 2008 Shiraz/Cabernet Estate is a strong effort.  With air, aromatic notions of blackberry pie, wild fennel, and black pepper emerge and preface a medium-bodied palate rife with black licorice and leather flavors, while copious quantities of plum and blackberry fruit provide Malbec-specific typicity.  Here the  alcohol is already creeping up on the finish, suggesting that an already precarious sense balance should be enjoyed much sooner than later.

User-friendly and consistently reliable wines are the norm at Dona Paula.  David Bonomi heads the winemaking duties here, and has shown a deft ability to turn out rich, compelling, and generally well-balanced wines at accessible prices.  The Estate wines represent particularly outstanding value, and should not be overlooked.

2010 Burgans Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain

88               Drink 2012              $12, QPR index - 7.3

Burgans has crafted a distinctive, nearly outstanding Albarino bottling in 2010.  Even better, it represents exceptional value.  A lifted bouquet integrates bananas, peach skin, and pineapples, which lead to a palate marked by racy acidity, a vibrant yet pliant texture, uncharacteristic opulence for this variety, and a mouthwatering, floral finish.  Drink it over the next year.

2005 La Perla del Priorat, "Noster," Priorat, Spain

90               Drink now-2015               $20, QPR index - 4.5

The 2005 version opens with alluring, sweetly ripe aromas of blueberries as well as black plums and other darker fruits, while notions of coffee and exotic spices emerge with air.  The palate shows a gorgeous, focusing vein of acidity, excellent balance, and a mineral finish.  Lavishly flavored, full-bodied, and possessed of refined, satiny tannins, this Priorat will be a revelation for readers looking for heady, rich, Chateauneuf du Pape styled wines at more accessible prices.

2007 Glaetzer, "Wallace," Barossa Valley, Australia

88               Drink now-2013               $24, QPR index - 3.7

The deep purple-colored 2007 "Wallace" is a blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Grenache hailing from the Ebenezer sector at the northern end of the Barossa Valley.  In the glass, the 2007 wafts aromatic notions of candied and carmelized blacker fruits as well as touches of chimney soot and decadent flowers, which lead to a voluminous palate of more sweet dark fruit along with additional dimensions of herbs and chocolate.  The finish shows a certain ornery astringency, only a minor distraction from an otherwise excellent effort.

Broadbent Port Auction Lot 1, Portugal

86               Drink n/a               $28, QPR index - 3.1

The Auction Lot 1 registers promising aromas of carmel, black currants, marker ink, and vanilla extract.  It has a rounded entry, a medium-full bodied mouthfeel, some alcoholic heat on the midpalate, and a moderately long finish streaked with blackberries and cocoa powder.  Well-composed, medium-sweet, and reasonably balanced, this is tasty though unremarkable and in need of greater depth and complexity.

MV St. Cosme Little James Basket Press Rouge, Southern France

87               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

This is the 2011 bottling (for more on which see below).  The characteristically black raspberry and concord grape scented Basket Press Rouge is quite pretty this year.  The palate echoes the wine's bouquet though with a distinctively peppery edge, plenty of freshness, and an herbal/floral pungency that is faintly reminiscent of Campari.  Seamless, downright delicious, and eminently drinkable, this would translate effortlessly from a cocktail hour to the dinner table.  Perhaps the best value in Louis Barruol's portfolio, which is saying something.

The multi-vintage (MV) Basket Press Rouge is rendered via the "solera" system.  This practice stipulates that the wine released in a particular year is composed of 50% the previous year's fruit (here 2010), while the difference consists of some quantity of juice from each vintage dating back to 1999.  A pure Grenache cuvee fermented and aged exclusively in tank, proprietor Louis Barruol has conceived a wine that memorably welds the evolved, earthier, and dry-fruited personalities of older vintages with the strapping, boisterous and sweetly ripe qualities of the current one.  In a sense the results are head scratching, as I simply can't come close to understanding how prices for this label remain so inexpensive.

Various Tasting Notes, Mostly Austria

Thanks to Kris Nelson of Vermont Wine Merchants for another revealing and thoughtfully constructed tasting.  I must say that one-on-one styled, intimately set tastings continue to be my preferred modus operandi (especially with a rep I have come to trust), if only because the physical space afforded and abscence of a bullishly commercial atmosphere gels more with my view of wine as a beverage of pleasure as opposed to a mere consumer commodity.

I feel compelled to simply express how impressed I continue to be with the general direction of Austria's wine culture.  There are still too many insipid, overcropped and uninspiring wines to be found, but they seem to be showing up less frequently in the marketplace.  As the follow notes suggest, there are a growing number of growers and producers whose insistence on naturally made and, increasingly, estate-bottled wines augur well for their future.  While the Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal remain the most consistent areas for beautifully rendered and, indeed world class wines (mostly whites), there are a bevy of superb wines to be found in the vast, geologically heterogeneous tracts of land to the southeast.  

Of these regions, Carnuntum seems forwardly placed to stamp itself as the epicenter of quality oriented reds.  The native grapes Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch thrive in this easterly region, and international varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are being planted with greater frequency, with a handful of producers making convincing wines with still attractive price tags.  The best producers in Carnuntum, whether working with varietal wines or blends, seem to capture a sense of concentration and distinctiveness wedded to understated and polished structures that, in terms of consistency of execution, seem to me to elude the reds of Austria's other wine regions.

A number of the wines in this report are imported by Michael Skurnik, with many selections made by one of his associates, Terry Thiese.  Especially for those lacking experience with Austrian wines (or any imported wines for that matter) it would be difficult to overstate the crucial role of the importer.  In fact, I would go as far as stating that for the consumer a good importer is as valuable a piece of information as one can find on a wine label.  I may risk sounding like a broken record, but importers who proudly represent the wines of organic/biodynamic estates and producers intent on bottling, except in rare circumstances, without fining or filtration are most worthy of consumer attention.  Names like Michael Skurnik and Kermit Lynch on the back of a wine label will never assure the consumer of a profoundly complex and ageworthy wine, but they are rarely another manifestation of the inexpressive and distressingly denuded wine whose only "merit" is that it possesses "no hard edges."  Only that those days were entirely in the past!

For the convenience of readers, wines are listed by points and in descending order.  I am avoiding adding notes on producers for reasons of space.  Wines scored below 85 are scored but not afforded tasting commentaries.  All are ready to drink unless otherwise noted.

Austria

92 - 2009 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner "Renner," Kamptal

The 2009 "Renner," hails from the famous Gaisberg vineyard located on the river Kamp, a northern tributary of the Danube.  A perfumy bouquet offers lemon meringue, flowers, sweet spices and Gruner's telltale green bean/herbal pungency, while the palate captures a lean, driven, powerful character that is rare in this early-ripening vintage.  Today this comes across as perhaps a touch young, but its concentration, seamlessness and length suggest at least half a dozen years of outstanding drinkability. 

90 - 2009 Ludwig Hiedler Gruner Veltliner "Loss," Kamptal

The 2009 Gruner Veltlines "Loss" is grown entirely on parcels with a high occurrence of Loess, a yellowish, ashy soil created by receding glaciers during the last ice age.  This soil drains expressly and efficiently, forcing wines to pursue deep root structures to assure themselves of a ready water supply.  Vivid aromatics redolent of candied lemons, flat Sprite and dried apricots lead to a surprisingly tropical, almost honeyed character on the palate, with a very sexy underlying exoticness.  There is a wonderful richness here, and a well-mannered finish.

89+ - 2010 Leth Gruner Veltliner "Steinagrund," Traisental

Hailing from Loess-bedecked and rocky terrain of the Traisental region south of the Wachau, the 2010 Leth "Steinagrund," ("stony soil") leads with notes of ripe pears, white pepper and flowers.  I like the density of flavors allied to the prominent acidity that characterizes so many 2010s, lending the wine a slender attractiveness.

89+ - 2008 Glatzer Blaufrankisch, Carnuntum

I am ecstatic to have discover the wines of Walter Glatzer, an organic producer stationed in Carnuntum (for more on which, see above).  His 2008 Blaufrankisch is scented like a well-endowed Sonoma County Syrah, with beautifully sculpted aromas of roasted herbs, cherry jam and game that impress for their length and ripeness, while an expressive detail of dark chocolate emerges on the finish.  Firmly structured and beautifully rendered.

88 - 2007 Glatzer Zweigelt Riedencuvee, Carnuntum  

More supply textured is the 2007 Zweigelt Reidencuvee, a pleasure-bent offering that houses flavors of worn leather, frying bacon, smoky raspberries within a lip-smacking, dares-you-not-to-take-another-sip sort of style.  Nice background details for the more prominent and eminently enjoyable dark cherry and raspberry character.   

87 - 2010 Rotes Haus Amnussberg Gemischter Satz Classic, Vienna 

This belongs to a class of wines called "Gemischter Satz."  Such labeling denotes a wine produced from a number of white grape varieties grown in the same vineyard and harvested on the same day.  No grape-specific differentiation is permitted during sorting or fermentation in this very traditional style of winemaking.  Of the two tasted here, I preferred the 2010 Rotes Haus Amnussberg Weiner Classic for its greater depth of flavor, including a distinctive hazelnut edge to the lemon starburst flavors that detonate on the palate.  A touch of residual sugar is briskly housed in this piquant white that harbors a healthy acidity and an elegant, charming demeanor.

85 - 2010 Weingut Christ Gemischter Satz,Vienna 

Also enjoyable is this offering from Weingut Christ, a wine laced with pretty notes of white peaches, flowers, melon and cinnamon as well as nice aromatic persistence.  Only a surprisingly short finish proves penalizing.

85 - 2009 Heidi Schrock Weinbauerin in Rust Weissburgunder, Neusiedlersee 

I am surprised I eventually succumbed to the virtues of this wine considering its initial blue cheese and aging produce-inflecked bouquet.  Most of those odd details blew off with air, giving way to fresh, even vibrant flavors that evoke orange and orange rind and a touch of tropical fruit.  I'm not always convinced about the qualities of Weissburgunder, but this delicious effort leaves me smiling.

85 - 2009 Weingut Christ Blauer Zweigelt Bisamberg, Vienna 

The 2009 conveys rich, almost candied aromas that seem a bit artificial to me.  There is no problem with drinkability here, although the monolithic profile and lack of genuine midpalate concentration disappoint.  After all that, the finish does its best to redeem things, revealing a balsamic, earthy edge.  I'd love to revisit this slightly perplexing Zweigelt in the near future.

81 - 2010 Martinshof Gruner Veltliner, Vienna

Other Various Tasting Notes

88 - 2008 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France

The 2008 Pinot Blanc flows with liquid dandelions, lemons and a hint of bitter greens.  A very distinctive and well-crafted Pinot Blanc, with a razor sharp acidity to keep everything in focus.  Impressive.

87+ - 2009 Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand 

The 2009 Mount Difficulty is a pleasant if somewhat uninspiring Pinot Noir, rendered in a style that favors purity and cleanliness of action that, to this taster, come at the expense of complexity and individuality.  Exhibits a noteworthy amplitude and fresh berry character on the palate, but remains adamantly one dimensional even with extended time in the glass.

87 - 2007 Ramsay Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, California 

An excellent value in North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon is the sweetly fruited 2007 Ramsay, which belies its outstanding vintage in its supple, silky tannins, while saturating the palate with fennel bulb, herbs, and sweet dark fruit tones.  This is nicely extracted, and represent outstanding value.  Delicious.

85 - 2009 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, California 

Value-oriented readers might also seek out the 2009 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, crafted in a fresh, early drinking style that oozes mint, eucalyptus, and a slight notion of parched soil.  Its modest capabilities are betrayed on the back end, which becomes medicinal and astringent.  Still, there is a good deal to like at this price.

85 - 2010 Sean Minor Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California

The 2010 seems just a touch short on varietal character and vigor, as its cherry fruit leans closer to fruit roll up than fresh cherries, although healthy acid levels and pleasantly firm sense of structure must be counted as virtues.  I can't believe I'm saying this considering that the Sean Minor wines are almost always intended for immediate consumption, but a year or eighteen months in bottle may help shed some primary fruit, while lending greater polish to the tannins.  

83 - 2009 Stickybeak Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California

82 - 2006 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France

2009 Milbrandt Vineyards Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, Washington

87               Drink now-2012               $12, QPR index - 7.3

The infectiously drinkable 2009 Pinot Gris is a terrific antidote for palates jaded with innocuous styles of Pinot Gris.  It exhibits flavors of chive and almond-infused butter as well as a whiff of tropical fruits in a youthfully generous, lively style.  A light spritz helps add some bite and focus on the back end, making this an eminently quaffable and delicious value-priced white perfect for cocktailing or an hors d'oeuvres hour, especially when served with richly textured foods.

2007 Domaine des Entrefaux, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France

90               Drink now-2016               $20, QPR index - 4.5

The expressive 2007 carries a mere 12.5% alchohol and evokes in its bouquet notions of black raspberries, subtle oak, and licorice together with details of blueberries and Provencal herbs that emerge with coaxing.  Its medium body, silken texture, and noteable purity and length are wrapped in a package of undeniable elegance and finesse.  I like the 2007 as much as the decidedly more firm and muscular 2005, and believe its intrinsically high sense of equilibrium should allow it to effortlessly reach its eighth or perhaps even tenth birthday.

2008 Xabec, Monstant, Spain

93               Drink now-2020               $15, QPR index - 6.2

The impressively endowed 2008 Xabec, a blend of equal parts Carignan and Garnacha, exhibits rich, spicy aromatics, a voluptuous texture, extraordinary opulence, and a palate profile of sweet dark fruit, forest floor, sweet spices, and well integrated oak.  Already showing excellent integration of its component parts, this beautifully crafted blend is approachable now, though its impeccable balance, commanding sense of structure, and incipient complexity augurs well for those with patience.  This amounts to an intelligent marriage of informed winemaking and gloriously opulent, beautifully ripe fruit.