84 Drink now-2013 $15, QPR index - 5.6
Readers looking for broad, powerful styles of Pinot Noir may well enjoy this offering from Veramonte, which offers mocha, roasted beet, brine, pomegranate, and black cherries, silky tannins, low acidity, prominent flavors of oak, and a moderate-length, alcoholic finish. I don't find this style intriguing.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
2009 Georges Duboeuf Fleurie, Domaine des Quatre Vents, Beaujolais, France
91 Drink now-2013 $18, QPR index - 5.1
The Fleurie "Domaine des Quatre Vents" is drop-dead gorgeous in 2009. This dark red, almost purplish wine registers effusive aromas that open to span the gamut between red and black fruits (though all of them singularly fresh!) as well as notes of black tea, mocha, and crushed rocks. The palate is lively and thoroughly invigorating in its energetic expression of minerals, black tea, flowers and perfectly pitched, ripe fruit. Altogether harmonious and infectiously drinkable, with considerable complexity and a capacity for thirst-quenching refreshment, all carried along by a long, lip-smacking, mineral finish. I can see this wine outliving my drinking window, though I happen to prefer to enjoy Beaujolais in all its effusively aromatic, strapping, berry-fruited youth.
The Fleurie "Domaine des Quatre Vents" is drop-dead gorgeous in 2009. This dark red, almost purplish wine registers effusive aromas that open to span the gamut between red and black fruits (though all of them singularly fresh!) as well as notes of black tea, mocha, and crushed rocks. The palate is lively and thoroughly invigorating in its energetic expression of minerals, black tea, flowers and perfectly pitched, ripe fruit. Altogether harmonious and infectiously drinkable, with considerable complexity and a capacity for thirst-quenching refreshment, all carried along by a long, lip-smacking, mineral finish. I can see this wine outliving my drinking window, though I happen to prefer to enjoy Beaujolais in all its effusively aromatic, strapping, berry-fruited youth.
Monday, January 23, 2012
2009 Patricia Green Pinot Noir Ana Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon
60 Drink now-2012 $35, QPR index - 1.7
The Pinot Noir Ana Vineyard leads with a bouquet of rust, lemongrass, beef carpaccio, and red berries, all heavily blanketed in leesy overtones. Evidence of a flawed bottle and refermentation become obvious on an acidic, off-tasting palate rife with barnyard/fecal character and a CO2 spritz. Bottling without fining or filtration always leaves the potential for problematic, live bottles, although the rewards of purely rendered and unmanipulated wines are well worth the occasional disappointment. Regardless, I'd be wary purchasing other bottles of the 2009 considering the risk at this price point.
The Pinot Noir Ana Vineyard leads with a bouquet of rust, lemongrass, beef carpaccio, and red berries, all heavily blanketed in leesy overtones. Evidence of a flawed bottle and refermentation become obvious on an acidic, off-tasting palate rife with barnyard/fecal character and a CO2 spritz. Bottling without fining or filtration always leaves the potential for problematic, live bottles, although the rewards of purely rendered and unmanipulated wines are well worth the occasional disappointment. Regardless, I'd be wary purchasing other bottles of the 2009 considering the risk at this price point.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy
87 Drink now-2014 $20, QPR index - 4.4
From one of the greatest "producers" in Barbaresco (the Produttori is a large-scaled cooperative of small growers), the 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo owes its provenance to young vines and juice that is left over from the flagship, typically reference-point Barbaresco bottling. This dark ruby colored Nebbiolo exhibits straightforward details of cherries and minerals in a fragrant, almost perfumy, mid-weight style. Here is a fairly priced, typical introduction to the Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont, though enthusiasts will likely join me in pointing out a somewhat superficial and largely one dimensional profile. Further, this bottling lacks the firm, tense energy of most 2008s.
From one of the greatest "producers" in Barbaresco (the Produttori is a large-scaled cooperative of small growers), the 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo owes its provenance to young vines and juice that is left over from the flagship, typically reference-point Barbaresco bottling. This dark ruby colored Nebbiolo exhibits straightforward details of cherries and minerals in a fragrant, almost perfumy, mid-weight style. Here is a fairly priced, typical introduction to the Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont, though enthusiasts will likely join me in pointing out a somewhat superficial and largely one dimensional profile. Further, this bottling lacks the firm, tense energy of most 2008s.
Friday, January 13, 2012
2008 Vietti Nebbiolo "Perbacco," Piedmont, Italy
91 Drink now-2022+ $25, QPR index - 3.6
Sunday, January 8, 2012
2010 Dona Paula Malbec Estate, Mendoza, Argentina
88 Drink now-2013 $15, QPR index - 5.9
Thursday, January 5, 2012
2008 Martinelli Zinfandel, "Jackass Vineyard," Russian River Valley, California
91 Drink now-2015 $100, QPR index - .91
Arrestingly distinctive in its expression of strawberries in cream, leather, and aged tobacco, the 2008 Jackass Vineyard possesses a surprisingly pinkish hue as well as a potent combination of tactile richness, enormous concentration and extract, and zesty acidity, here combined with high results via a reflective, informed style of winemaking that manages to lend a high sense of equilibrium rare for such a massively-endowed wine. Its 16.6% natural alcohol is deftly concealed beneath its sweet tannin and vivid red fruits, while the finish features a compelling interplay between spice, fruit, and cream elements, leaving an impression of whipped cream/roasted marshmallow in its wake. Readers searching for heavyweight wines that push the limits of concentration and extraction are sure to find any work necessary in finding this wine quite worthwhile.
Arrestingly distinctive in its expression of strawberries in cream, leather, and aged tobacco, the 2008 Jackass Vineyard possesses a surprisingly pinkish hue as well as a potent combination of tactile richness, enormous concentration and extract, and zesty acidity, here combined with high results via a reflective, informed style of winemaking that manages to lend a high sense of equilibrium rare for such a massively-endowed wine. Its 16.6% natural alcohol is deftly concealed beneath its sweet tannin and vivid red fruits, while the finish features a compelling interplay between spice, fruit, and cream elements, leaving an impression of whipped cream/roasted marshmallow in its wake. Readers searching for heavyweight wines that push the limits of concentration and extraction are sure to find any work necessary in finding this wine quite worthwhile.
2008 Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett, "Blue Slate," Mosel, Germany
89 Drink now-2014 $22, QPR index - 4.0
The 2008 Kabinett "Blue Slate," offers loads of appeal in its attractive, fragrant, mid-weight personality, and articulate flavors of tangerines, citrus oils, and lanolin. There is nice cut as the wine thrusts across the palate, with a mouthwatering finish that carries the impression of wet stones. Like most 2008 Kabinett examples, the 2008 is ready to drink, and, in so doing, proves capable of providing its consumers manifold pleasure.
The 2008 Kabinett "Blue Slate," offers loads of appeal in its attractive, fragrant, mid-weight personality, and articulate flavors of tangerines, citrus oils, and lanolin. There is nice cut as the wine thrusts across the palate, with a mouthwatering finish that carries the impression of wet stones. Like most 2008 Kabinett examples, the 2008 is ready to drink, and, in so doing, proves capable of providing its consumers manifold pleasure.
Sunday, January 1, 2012
1998 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri, Southeastern Australia
93 Drink now-2018 $50, QPR index - 1.8
The 1998 is holding beautifully, and is showing notable articulation and, remarkably, a youthfully generous personality. Considering that I just invested in a number of bottles, this is excellent news! Out of the gate the 1998 displays warm, brambly dark red and blacker fruits, tobacco, milk chocolate, and sweet spices. At its core, this is impressively endowed with sweetly ripe fruit, fresh acidity, and supple tannins that gain traction on the 30+ second finish. Another eight years of prime drinking seem well within reach here, as it will continue to age on balance alone. This is an awesome St. Henri from John Duval!
The 1998 is holding beautifully, and is showing notable articulation and, remarkably, a youthfully generous personality. Considering that I just invested in a number of bottles, this is excellent news! Out of the gate the 1998 displays warm, brambly dark red and blacker fruits, tobacco, milk chocolate, and sweet spices. At its core, this is impressively endowed with sweetly ripe fruit, fresh acidity, and supple tannins that gain traction on the 30+ second finish. Another eight years of prime drinking seem well within reach here, as it will continue to age on balance alone. This is an awesome St. Henri from John Duval!
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