2008 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti "Le Orme," DOCG

The 2008 was aged for eight months in large oak barrels, yet smells appreciably oakier than previous vintages of this wine.  To call the 2008 charming one would have to lean heavily on the freshness, vibrancy and recognizable underlying minerality while overlooking the searing back-end tannins and (again) the oak, which is too forwardly placed and makes an otherwise charming wine taste heavy handed.

86 points.

Drink now-2013.

$14, QPR index - 6.1

2009 Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Reserve, Southern Rhone Valley

This year's regular and reserve Cotes du Rhone bottlings are comprised of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mouvedre.  The reserve is a dark, saturated ruby color and wafts scents of cassis, pepper, licorice and a touch of blueberry.  It is fresh and medium-bodied, fueled by notable sweet tannin wedded with a fleshy personality, hallmarks of vintage 2009.  It is to be consumed sooner rather than later and is an excellent choice for drinking over the next 18 months.

87 points.

Drink now-2012.

$14, QPR index - 6.2

2006 Waterbrook Merlot, Reserve, Columbia Valley, Washington

At once supple and fleshy, this is brimming with ripe, pure Merlot fruit, showcasing a flavor profile of focused red and blue fruits supported by coffee, bay leaf and herbal undertones.  In a word: delicious.

90 points.

Drink now-2015.

$20, QPR index - 4.5

2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon "Les Chaignots" Premier Cru, Nuits-St.-Georges, Cotes du Nuits, Burgundy, France

Extracted garnet coloring and a nose of dried mushrooms, parched soil, ginger, red cherries and herbs emerge from this precociously developed effort.  It flows onto the palate with considerable purity, very good-excellent concentration and ample fruity on a medium-weight frame.  This is an excellent choice for short term consumption and is ideal choice for restaurant drinking, as it shows fabulously well out of bottle, although it is unlikely to improve with extended cellaring.

90 points.

Drink now-2015.

$48, QPR index - 1.9

2008 Vietti Nebbiolo "Perbacco," DOC, Piedmont

So what's new?  The 2008 is another lovely effort in an long, unbroken string of successful wines bottled under the Perbacco label.  This is Luca Currado's entry level Nebbiolo, technically a Langhe Nebbiolo because it is released with less than the one year of bottle aging necessary to achieve the Barolo designation from the DOC.  A polished, classy effort, this year's Perbacco shows notes of sweet spices, liquid minerals and cherries and possesses a medium-bodied, feminine personality.  This is clearly a wine that, while drinking well early, has the ability to improve with a few years of bottle age, and should effortlessly see its seventh, eight or even tenth birthday.

90 points.

Drink now-2018.

$24, QPR index - 3.8

2010 Chateau de Saint-Cosme Cotes du Rhone, Southern Rhone Valley, France

Developed scents of mesquite, charcoal and grilled meats turn spicy on the palate together with additional notes of freshly ground black pepper, black raspberries and herbs.  The 2010 has uncommon length, tons of personality, and is a deliciously front-loaded effort that should be drunk within its first two years of life.

Drink Now-2012.

88 points.

$16, QPR index - 5.5

2009 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, "Rosella's Vineyard," Santa Lucia Highlands, Central Coast, California

A towering and massively ripe wine, the 2009 Rosella's possesses rich aromatics redolent of decadent flowers, salted beef stock and sweet red berries intermixed with hints of balsamic and hard candy.  While this is an unmistakably hedonistic pinot noir and is not intended for the Burgundian apologist, I suspect the enticing texture, staggering fullness and exceptional richness present here are more than enough to ensure readers enormous drinking pleasure, while the depth and multidimensional character present here augur well for the future.  Plan on enjoying this behemoth over at least the next decade.

Drink now-2021.

93 points.

$45, QPR index - 2.1

2009 Anne Amie Muller-Thurgau, Cuvee A, Willamette Valley

The 2009 is entirely estate grown.  It possesses a restrained, delicate nose with riesling-like aromatics of orange blossom and lime followed by a plush, textured mouthfeel marked by low acidity.  Faintly cidery on the palate, this is an unadorned wine meant for early consumption, though it packs enough pretty fruit and varietal character to merit serious consumer consideration.

Drink now.

86 points.

$12, QPR index - 7.2

2008 d'Arenberg Viognier-Marsanne, "The Hermit Crab," Southeastern Australia

A blend of southern Rhone varieties (72% Viognier and 28% Marsanne), the 2008 is a ripe style that shows plenty of concentrated, textured orchard fruit alongside oyster shell and a lilting floral note that weaves effortlessly through the lush, expressive fruit.  Tangy green apple notes mark the finish and round things out nicely.

I am smitten by the potential of this wine with food; try it with an Italian bread crumb-crusted Haddock finished with a simple beurre blanc.  The textures alone should prove thrilling.

Drink now.

88 points.

$14, QPR index - 6.3

2005 Domaine de la Chevalerie, "Galichets", Loire

A very lively, almost rambunctious nose greets the taster, emitting duck fat, bittersweet red fruits and violets.  This is a finessed, refined Cabernet Franc with medium-high acidity (even considering the vintage) delivered in an understated, medium-weight style showing considerable transparency and accessibility as the wine works toward a moderate finish laced with floral and coffee notes.  A slightly overriding medicinal component and light-moderate fruit intensity are only slight detractors in an otherwise excellent effort.

Drink now-2013.

88 points.

$24, QPR index - 3.7

2008 Renato Ratti Nebbiolo d'Alba Ochetti, DOC

Ratti's super-generic entry level Nebbiolo is defined by a bouquet and flavors of prune, smoke, oak spice and a touch of toffee.  At this modest price point I may be overstating things, but it merits mention that this clearly appears to be a wine whose provenance has included (like many Langhe Nebbiolos these days) such a brief maceration period with the skins that the result is a finished wine with little discernible charm, moderate structure at best, and superficial typicity.  Stated simply, this is not a style I find attractive.

85 points.

Drink now.

$20, QPR index - 4.3

2003 Guido Porro "Lazzairasco", Barolo DOCG

Hailing from the easternmost commune of the Langhe, Serralunga, Guido Porro's 2003 Barolo Lazzairasco (from the Lazzarito vineyard) displays aromatics redolent of fully mature cherries, baking spices and eucalyptus.  Round and velvety on entry, the fruit never loses its grip on the taster, while kisses of tar and mineral chime in on the medium-length finish.  My only concern is the slightly hard tannin that (like most 2003s) reflects the ubiquitous elusiveness of phenolic ripeness characteristic of this blisteringly hot vintage, a fundamental pitfall of the 2003 Baroli that will never fully resolve itself even under the auspices of extended bottle aging.  Nevertheless, the compact and ancient soils of Serralunga together with the old vines of the Lazzarito vineyard have ensured an overall delicious and reasonably complete Barolo has been yielded, although precision and a high sense of equilibrium remain elusive.

Drink now-2018.

89 points.

$40, QPR index - 2.2


Re-reviewed 31 July 2011


Today the wine retains its plump, extrordinarily ripe and fleshy personality with character informed by notes of prunes, mature cherries, baking spices, coffee and chocolate.  Despite the dark cast of flavors this bottle shows remarkable freshness considering the vintage, as well as a higher sense of equilibrium than I found in my previous tasting.  Today the fruit and tannins are woven together wonderfully, and this ultimately amounts to a highly successful Barolo.  I suspect it will drink beautifully for at least six more years.

91 points.