93 Drink 2013-2025 $35, QPR index - 2.7
The 2008 flows with the essence of fresh ripe blackberries coated with brown sugar. This deeply colored, exceptionally dense and ripe high-altitude Cabernet is a winemaking tour de force, though it is still very primary at this stage and needs to shed a little baby fat as well. Even now the expansive, multidimensional texture and glossy tannic profile are wonderfully ingratiating. Very promising.
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Friday, November 25, 2011
2006 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley, France
91 Drink now-2016+ $100, QPR index - 0.9
The ruby colored 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape leads with a charming bouquet that evokes cherries simmered in liquor, lavender, nori, and sweet spices. On the palate it reveals extravagant richness and low acidity as well as an expansive mouthfeel that fans out toward the midpalate and reveals even greater concentration and broad-shouldered opulence on the finish. With decanting, this lush, concentrated wine seems to be already near its peak.
The ruby colored 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape leads with a charming bouquet that evokes cherries simmered in liquor, lavender, nori, and sweet spices. On the palate it reveals extravagant richness and low acidity as well as an expansive mouthfeel that fans out toward the midpalate and reveals even greater concentration and broad-shouldered opulence on the finish. With decanting, this lush, concentrated wine seems to be already near its peak.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
2006 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, Napa Valley, California
95+ Drink 2013-2033 $60, QPR index - 3.5
You'll have to pick your jaw off the floor, but the 2006 seamlessly weds power and elegance, with a heady, superlative bouquet redolent of sweet black currants and cedar along with confectionary notes that recall chocolate shavings and carmel. Unctuously textured, extraordinarily powerful and authoritatively flavored, this is another supremely convincing wine in a long line of pure, precise, driven Cabernets with a long track record for improving in bottle. Further, there is ample acidity to ensure that the richness remains on track as the midpalate builds toward a monumental, muscular finish. This should prove to be even longer lived than the awesome 2005.
You'll have to pick your jaw off the floor, but the 2006 seamlessly weds power and elegance, with a heady, superlative bouquet redolent of sweet black currants and cedar along with confectionary notes that recall chocolate shavings and carmel. Unctuously textured, extraordinarily powerful and authoritatively flavored, this is another supremely convincing wine in a long line of pure, precise, driven Cabernets with a long track record for improving in bottle. Further, there is ample acidity to ensure that the richness remains on track as the midpalate builds toward a monumental, muscular finish. This should prove to be even longer lived than the awesome 2005.
2008 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, Argentina
88 Drink now-2012 $22, QPR index - 4.0
The 2008 is characteristically high in extract and richness and low in acidity, displaying a fruit-filled bouquet of ripe plums, figs, chocolate and earthy blackcurrants. On the palate it exhibits a full-bodied opulence, decadent texture and mouthfeel within a warm, voluminous, open personality.
The Clos de los Siete is a project headed by the legendary Michel Rolland, originally of Bordeaux fame and now, of course, renowned the world over for his ability to craft bold, rich wines typically possessed of sweet tannin and user-friendly character. Grapes for the Clos de los Siete are culled from seven high-elevation estate vineyards south of Mendoza averaging around 3,000 feet above sea level. Regardless of vintage, the wines show a great deal of concentration and extraction, and their sumptuous, lush demeanors are best enjoyed within three years of vintage. They are an excellent source of tasty and reasonably priced wines although their generally anemic acidities give them limited value at the table.
The 2008 is characteristically high in extract and richness and low in acidity, displaying a fruit-filled bouquet of ripe plums, figs, chocolate and earthy blackcurrants. On the palate it exhibits a full-bodied opulence, decadent texture and mouthfeel within a warm, voluminous, open personality.
The Clos de los Siete is a project headed by the legendary Michel Rolland, originally of Bordeaux fame and now, of course, renowned the world over for his ability to craft bold, rich wines typically possessed of sweet tannin and user-friendly character. Grapes for the Clos de los Siete are culled from seven high-elevation estate vineyards south of Mendoza averaging around 3,000 feet above sea level. Regardless of vintage, the wines show a great deal of concentration and extraction, and their sumptuous, lush demeanors are best enjoyed within three years of vintage. They are an excellent source of tasty and reasonably priced wines although their generally anemic acidities give them limited value at the table.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
2008 Kendall Jackson Syrah, Vintner's Reserve, California
84 Drink now-2012 $15, QPR index - 5.6
Dominated by dusty cherry fruit with hints of blueberries and underbrush, the 2008 Syrah is a simple effort that nonetheless offers sweet aromatics, reasonable balance, as well as a peppery/gamey quality that well represent the intrinsic qualities of the variety. This fruit-filled, plush Syrah should be enjoyed over the next 6 months.
Dominated by dusty cherry fruit with hints of blueberries and underbrush, the 2008 Syrah is a simple effort that nonetheless offers sweet aromatics, reasonable balance, as well as a peppery/gamey quality that well represent the intrinsic qualities of the variety. This fruit-filled, plush Syrah should be enjoyed over the next 6 months.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
2009 Cameron Hughes Zinfandel, "The Flying Winemaker," Lodi, California
85 Drink now-2012 $11, QPR index - 7.7
Cameron Hughes is one of the world's most consistent producers of wines that consistently over-deliver and offer a great deal of flavor for under $15.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
2008 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Napa Valley, California
89 Drink now-2020 $40, QPR index - 2.2
Like most 2008s, the Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley possesses a dark purple color. Demure, seductive aromas redolent of creme de cassis, tobacco, worn leather, and warm, sweet dark fruit precede an amazingly full, opulent palate with enormous concentration, richness and sheer extract. My score would be considerably higher, save for a finish laden with adamantly dry, searing tannins. Perhaps time will help, although this is certainly a commendable bottling that can be enjoyed now with a grilled or broiled red meats, or cheeses with a high fat content. It merits mention that prices at Hall have remained modest and reasonable despite steadily increasingly demand for the estate's entire portfolio, particularly their single-vineyard offerings.
Like most 2008s, the Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley possesses a dark purple color. Demure, seductive aromas redolent of creme de cassis, tobacco, worn leather, and warm, sweet dark fruit precede an amazingly full, opulent palate with enormous concentration, richness and sheer extract. My score would be considerably higher, save for a finish laden with adamantly dry, searing tannins. Perhaps time will help, although this is certainly a commendable bottling that can be enjoyed now with a grilled or broiled red meats, or cheeses with a high fat content. It merits mention that prices at Hall have remained modest and reasonable despite steadily increasingly demand for the estate's entire portfolio, particularly their single-vineyard offerings.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
2009 Ridge, "Geyserville," Sonoma Coast, California
94 Drink now-2016 $30, QPR index - 3.1
The 2009 Geyserville is off the charts and simply breathtaking. Its aromatics convey the primary and youthfully energetic qualities of Zinfandel in a bouquet marked by ripe black fruits, pepper, earthy/mineral tones, oak spice and cigar box. What's more, it offers fascinating evolution with extended time in the glass. The plush character of Carignan and the structural firmness of Petite Sirah and Mourvedre reveal the deft, reflective hand of winemaking that continue to inform Paul Draper's wines. Despite a boatload of sweet, ripe tannin, in 2009 the texture remains superbly finessed and ethereal, almost conveying a sense of weightlessness.
The 2009 Geyserville is off the charts and simply breathtaking. Its aromatics convey the primary and youthfully energetic qualities of Zinfandel in a bouquet marked by ripe black fruits, pepper, earthy/mineral tones, oak spice and cigar box. What's more, it offers fascinating evolution with extended time in the glass. The plush character of Carignan and the structural firmness of Petite Sirah and Mourvedre reveal the deft, reflective hand of winemaking that continue to inform Paul Draper's wines. Despite a boatload of sweet, ripe tannin, in 2009 the texture remains superbly finessed and ethereal, almost conveying a sense of weightlessness.
2008 Ridge, "Lytton Springs," Sonoma County, California
90 Drink now-2016 $26, QPR index - 3.5
2006 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont
89 Drink 2014-2022 $30, QPR index - 3.0
In similar form to the last time I tasted it, the 2006 Barbaresco remains a challenging wine to assess now, but promises tons of upside. In short, the 2006 is a massively structured wine still in its infancy and couched in a period of dormancy. With backward aromas and a distanced, austere palate showing the essence of cellar dust, black cherries and mint, this simply needs time and, in all likelihood, lots of it. This represents a serious entry level wine offering admirable structure, power and outstanding balance, suggesting that my score will jump considerably if the wine is able to integrate its component parts in the future.
In similar form to the last time I tasted it, the 2006 Barbaresco remains a challenging wine to assess now, but promises tons of upside. In short, the 2006 is a massively structured wine still in its infancy and couched in a period of dormancy. With backward aromas and a distanced, austere palate showing the essence of cellar dust, black cherries and mint, this simply needs time and, in all likelihood, lots of it. This represents a serious entry level wine offering admirable structure, power and outstanding balance, suggesting that my score will jump considerably if the wine is able to integrate its component parts in the future.
Thursday, November 3, 2011
2008 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Prologue, Napa Valley, California
91 Drink now-2018 $25, QPR index - 3.7
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Prologue is also produced from estate grown fruit, specifically lots culled from the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve bottling. It opens with a dense, concentrated nose of blackberries and minerals with the unmistakeable purity and focus that so often characterize wines from Todd Anderson and Mac Sawyer. Additional notes of licorice and spice box emerge with time in the glass, leading to a gorgeously ripe, full-flavored wine that is jam packed with black fruits, graphite, spice box and cedar as well as excellent volume, freshness and buoyancy. This second label is a shining example why "second wines" very often define the world's best wine values.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Prologue is also produced from estate grown fruit, specifically lots culled from the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve bottling. It opens with a dense, concentrated nose of blackberries and minerals with the unmistakeable purity and focus that so often characterize wines from Todd Anderson and Mac Sawyer. Additional notes of licorice and spice box emerge with time in the glass, leading to a gorgeously ripe, full-flavored wine that is jam packed with black fruits, graphite, spice box and cedar as well as excellent volume, freshness and buoyancy. This second label is a shining example why "second wines" very often define the world's best wine values.
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