2010 Altovinum Garnacha, "Evodia," Calatayud, Spain

86               Drink now-2012               $11, QPR index - 7.8

From centenarian vines sourced from high-elevation sites in Calatayud, the 2010 Evodia wafts scents of liquid violets, potpourri, lavender, spices, and sweetly ripe dark red fruits.  Penetratingly floral, supple in texture and exhibiting a seamless mouthfeel as well as opulence without feeling heavy, this is a super-inexpensive cuvee that over-delivers in terms of quality.  Unoaked and food friendly, this offers bold, uncompromising aromas and flavors that culminate in a wine that is distinctive and, stated simply, a lot of fun to drink.

2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, Napa Valley, California

96               Drink now-2028               $65, QPR index - 1.5

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve opens with an exquisite bouquet that evokes creme de cassis, forest floor, campfire/burning embers, graphite and some background oak.  Supremely elegant without lacking in punch or power, with a high level of integrated acidity as well as a seamless, satiny texture, the wine also reveal a firmness of tannin that manages to lend the wine a sense of power, focus and authority.

Proprietor Todd Anderson and his winemaker Mac Sawyer have crafted another totally compelling, awesome value in California Cabernet Sauvignon.  Their three top cuvees, the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve, the St. Emilion-inspired Right Bank cuvee (Merlot and Cabernet Franc) and their tete-de-cuvee, Eloge (primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with varying amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), are among the purest, most distinctive and convincingly superb wines made anywhere in California...or the world!  Sublime is the closest I can come to approximating the inspired beauty of these Bordeaux style blends, but the simple fact is that words just fall short of doing them justice.

2011 Farrell Distributing Wine Trade Show, top 15 values

I was able to attend Farrell's Fall Trade Show for the second year in a row.  To say that they pull out all the stops with their culinary offerings is an unforgivable understatement, and the presentation of everything from sushi rolls to every variety of creme brulee on earth is as gorgeous as the diverse tapestry of their flavors.  The Equinox again proved its capabilities for handling such a large crowd, and I have to voice my gratitude to Farrell for dishing out for what is certainly an expensive space, as I hate attending trade shows where one is hardly afforded elbow room.  My impressions below encompass the best 15 wines in terms of quality/price ratio:  

93+ – 2009 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clarke and Telephone Vineyard Sonoma ($30.00)

Stunnningly melds a firm, tight mouthfeel with exemplary focus, lending terrific authority to the abundance of rich, intense, complex flavors; astonishing equilibrium and personality in spades; very varietal, yet singular and distinctive; exceptional winemaking here

91 - 2007 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($37.59)

                Exhibits terrific balance, with a nose revealing sweet dark fruit along with compelling, evolved
                secondary nuances; healthy, gorgeous acidity and integrated tannins

91 – 2007 Macrostie Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain ($24.80)

A beautiful wine from start to finish, with complex, sexy notes of apples intermingling with plenty of acids to lend the wine a sophisticated, elegant demeanor; clearly from low yields and a respectful, conscientious producer with plenty of help from a superlative vintage; this is understated but memorable for its purity and healthy radiance

90+ – 2008 Macrostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ($15.03)

Attractively tropical, revealing fresh aromatics redolent of pineapple, pears, and flowers as well as underlying minerality; long and persistent, with even greater savory minerality emerging on the long, ingratiating finish

90 – 2007 Cameron Hughes Syrah lot 156 ($9.77)

A fine glass pour Syrah if I’ve ever seen one!  This is a finely tuned, skillfully sculpted Syrah with persistent aromatics of sweet dark fruit and licorice packaged in a breezy, weightless style that features superfine tannins and gorgeous, healthy acids; at this price, the balance offered here is absurd 

90    - 2001 Bodegas Ontanon Gran Reserva ($24.80)

89+ - 2004 Bodegas Ontanon Reserva ($16.53)

I am thrilled to have stumbled upon wines from the tiny estate of Bodegas Ontanon, a small family-owned estate stationed in Rioja Baja.  Winemaker Ruben took over winemaking duties from his father in 2001, a vintage that Laine (Ruben’s sister and the winery’s marketing head) recalls, smilingly, as the best of the past decade.  Tasting through the six wines she offered (two of which are from Ruben’s recently established subsidiary project from purchased fruit in Ribera del Duero) Ruben’s style might be summarized as one that prizes purity of fruit andaromatic complexity, and his wines are imbued with compelling, distinctive and concentrated personalities.  He works with yields even lower than those mandated by the DO, and this excellent showing attests to his skill and non-interventionist approach to vinification.  The Gran Reserva (2001) and Reserva (2004) are equally complete, though I happen to prefer the fresh, vivacious nature of the Reserva (2004) to the more brooding and at this stage backward Gran Reserva (2001).

90 – 1997 Kalin Cellars Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($27.81)

A seductive, alluring nose of wilted flowers, mushrooms, forest floor amidst some reductive notes; the palate reveals even greater floral character than the nose, with enough fruit to make the tertiary, highly evolved components seem attractive and intellectually satisfying rather than distracting

90 – 2007 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($27.06)

Conveys aromatic notions of brown sugar and tar in a swarthy, distinctive style, with nice extraction and elegance, as well as a focused attack that cuts broadly across the palate, with tannins that build gradually creep toward a forceful, virile, structured finish; this is a swarthy wine with persistent aromatics and nice depth

89 – 2008 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($26.30)

Displays lots of blackcurrant/crème de cassis in a package that was unmistakably addressed from the Napa Valley, with serious density, purity and opulence; a flashy, fruit-driven, low-acid style; good length

89 – 2006 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera Ravera ($24.05)

A lithe and supple style, with finessed tannins, yet very good-excellent concentration that houses flavors of blueberries, licorice and damp earth tones; the racy yet supple character creates a nice textural interplay; foursquare winemaking

89 – 2007 Kendall Jackson Merlot Grand Reserve ($16.54)

What’s not to like here?  Medium-full bodied, full-flavored, soft, and irresistibly delicious juice produced from beautifully healthy fruit; with forward herbal/cherry flavors, ingratiating tannins and silky texture, one might further count the admittedly two-dimensional profile here a virtue, as it leaves no doubt that this is designed to simply provide its consumers enormous and pretention-less pleasure

88 – 2007 Macrostie Pinot Noir Wildcat Mountain ($28.56)

Produces a bouquet of fresh mint intermixed with red berry fruit together with herbs and new oak (although I’m told only 20% new wood is used); attractive, vivid varietal flavors and a seamless texture throughout, though the finish drops off rather quickly; this is very fine, but lacks the completely convincing winemaking that seems more evident in the Chardonnays

 88 – 2008 Ravines Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes ($12.77)

            In a certain sense, this was the revelatoriest wine of the afternoon for me;            

reveals reticent aromas that convey a certain sexy shyness more than anything reluctant or demure; it is immediately and unquestionably clear that this is a producer working with very, very low yields, who respects his vineyards and works them thoroughly and whose results attest to his passion and uncompromising work ethic; there is no intrusive, obvious herbaceousness, nearly complete ripeness, no hard edges, and aromas and flavors of game and red fruits; healthy acid levels

87 –2009 Ogier Heritages Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc ($8.26)

Eager, lifted aromas of lemon curd as well as a hint of white pepper emerge, while the palate conveys good freshness, crushed rocks, and a pleasant texture with no hard edges 

2009 Domaine la Garrigue Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone Valley, France

90               Drink 2012-2020               $20, QPR index - 4.5

Dispersing aromatic notions of truffles, licorice, underbrush and dark fruit as well as flavors of dark plums, blackcurrants, and tobacco, this brooding, well-structured and still relatively backward wine possesses admirable purity, a full-bodied opulence, silky tannins and a luxurious mouthfeel.  With terrific integration of tannin, acidity, alcohol and oak, this expressive, swarthy and seductive wine amounts a serious effort from this producer.  It will benefit from a year or two of cellaring, which should help shed some tannin and add direction and momentum to the midpalate-finish transition.

2008 Domaine Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon, "Occultum Lapidem," Roussillon, France

92               Drink now-2014+               $16, QPR index - 5.8

The 2008 Occultum Lapidem shows a good deal of poise on the nose, with ripe black cherries and wet earth in the forest showing beautiful articulation and seductiveness.  The palate reveals serious concentration and personality as well as additional dimensions of boysenberries, cut oats and excellent minerality which build toward an eloquent, polished finish that recall, in lengthy echo, the character and complexity of this exceptional wine.  At this price, the value offered here might be best described as otherworldly!  Grenache, Syrah and old bush vine Carignan, hand-harvested and bottled without fining or filtration.

2009 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay, "Karia," Napa Valley, California

88               Drink now-2014               $25, QPR index - 3.6

Nutty aromas announce the 2009 Chardonnay "Karia," which shows a good deal of oak and constituent spice/smoke character as well as abundant notes of vibrant citrus fruits.  Medium-bodied with refreshing acidity and tropical fruit flavors, this remains pure and rather expressive through a finish that evokes toasty, buttery details.  Nice typicity here.

2008 Bogle "Phantom," Red Blend, North Coast, California

88               Drink now-2015               $16, QPR index - 5.5

For 2008, the blend is roughly equal parts old vine Zinfandel and Petite Sirah with just a seasoning of Mourvedre.  It displays peppery, spicy aromatics intermixed with blackberries, black cherries and cola.  Medium-full bodied, amply flavored and very spicy, this shows a lot of flavor and persistence at this price level, with a long, fruit-filled finish.  Production for this cuvee is relatively low for this producer, and I suspect that figure is even lower in 2008 due to widespread problems with flowering, resulting in lowered yields.  The grapes for this cuvee are sourced from Lodi (Zinfandel), Amador County (Petite Sirah), and Clarksburg (Mourvedre).  I suspect that this sensual, rich blend has the structure to evolve for another year or so and will hold up for a good 3-4 years from there.  Here is an outstanding value, but that's no surprise considering the name on the label.

2009 Domaine Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley, France

94+               Drink now-2027               $35, QPR index - 2.7

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is simply stunning.  It displays off the charts richness, aromatic depth, and textural opulence as well as incredibly pure aromatics of Provencal herbs, lavender, and spicy blackberries.  This shows a dimension of radiance and warm, supple fruit that most 2009s are not showing at this early stage.  Even in Chateauneuf du Pape, wine too seldom tastes like this.  It is even better than the glorious 2007, and if it continues to gain complexity in bottle it will ultimately merit a classic score.  

Gaston Chiquet Brut NV, "Tradition,"

90              Drink now-2014               $38, QPR index - 2.3

Expressive, chiseled aromatics meld seamlessly into flavors of orchard fruits, minerals and crushed rocks/gravel.  With a fine mousse, seamless texture and notable detail, this is a beautifully crafted and very aromatic Champagne, with at least a few prime years of drinking ahead.  Disgorged 14 October 2010.

2003 Bocca di Lupo Aglianico Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy

82               Drink n/a               $35, QPR index - 2.3            

The 2003 Castel del Monte, produced from the Aglianico grape, is certainly in decline, with a fruit-deficient bouquet of bacon fat, smoke, tapenade and cedar.  It makes a smooth and sufficiently promising entry before dropping its appeal in the midpalate and showing nothing of interest in its structured finish.  The acidity and structure were present to make this a 10 year wine, but, sadly, neither the persistence of fruit and/or requisite balance to make these aging bones much fun to drink.

Various tasting notes: private tasting at Vermont Wine Merchants

Kris and Mike put on one hell of a tasting Monday afternoon, solidifying their reputation for possessing the best portfolio of high quality Italian wines to be found in Vermont.  While their Baroli and Brunelli were showstoppers, other Italian wine regions had the opportunity to display their less-familiar vinous riches, with a number of southern reaches, especially Sicily and Puglia, showing remarkably well.  Pinot Noir hailing from the Willamette Valley and Central Otago were equally compelling, while Bordeaux's producers and offerings were received less enthusiastically, though, to be fair, several bottles offered were from the problematic and challenging 2008 vintage.  Toward the end of our marathon session, a couple Australian delights, a varietal Shiraz and a southern Rhone-style blend, were thrown in gratis.  The VWM tasting facility was warm and inviting, with the requisite glassware, cleanliness and atmosphere conducive to professional tasting.  As far as Kris and Mike are concerned, their collective passion, knowledge and patience lie beyond reproach, nor will their generosity be forgotten.

Italy

2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (Score n/a, Drink n/a)

Out of the gate this appears penetratingly floral, with somewhat oxidized ripe fruit and an exotic, almost flamboyant demeanor.  After decanting, volatile and unpleasant aromatics become more pronounced.  A bad bottle alone isn't enough for censure, but it merits mentioning that bottle variation has been a problem at this address in the past.

2005 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (94, Drink 2012-2020)

A lovely, endearing Monprivato is the 2005, which shows a nose of sweet raspberries, herbs and licorice.  On the palate its youth and primary character are evident, with plenty of elegant fruit in its lean, compressed profile flanked by voluptuous tannins that firm considerably on the back end.  This is as traditional as Barolo gets, and it is Mascarello so it needs time.

2003 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (91, Drink 2011-2014)

Already at full maturity, the 2003 proves more reticent than the 2005, with reluctant aromatics redolent of baking spices, rich plum jam, and new French oak.  This lacks the aromatic freshness and vigor of most outstanding Brunellos, but it is my opinion that its swarthy, opulent fruit and sexy, seductive personality win the day.

2005 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (89, Drink 2013-2017)

The 2005 shows even more oak than the 2003, with a treble octave of bright red cherries, white chocolate and wet autumn leaves.  On the palate, the wine shows notable freshness much in keeping with the vintage, but it seems to lose focus around the midpalate where a disjointed, awkward transition to the finish proves penalizing.   My experience with this producer makes me believe a year or so of bottle age should help this young Brunello better integrate its oak, and I'd bet this will show more advantageously in the future.

2009 Fattoria di Magliano, "Heba,"Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany (87, Drink now-2013)

A widely available and affordable bargain, this Sangiovese shows aromas and flavors of hard candy, cherry fruit rollup and balsamic.  Its low acidity isn't necessarily out of place given the warm, coastal microclimate of Scansano, this fat, unctuously textured style is, admittedly, not what I look for in Sangiovese.

2010 La Mondianese Grignolino, Piedmont (88, Drink now-2012)

This distinctive and delicious Piedmontese red is imbued with fennel, anise and red berry character as well as lovely piquancy and an endearing personality.  This is admirable for its bright, fresh flavors and purity of fruit.  No oak.

2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso, Umbria (82?, Drink now-2012)

The 2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosse, from Umbria, possesses a blowsy, smudged bouquet that leads to a disjointed and unfocused attack.  I hope this is a bad bottle?

2009 Velenosi Lacrima di Morro, Marche (87, Drink now-2013)

This easygoing, harmonious red shows lots of fruit and big oak in a highly distinctive style that remains well-balanced through the finish.  Very appealing for its singularity and front-loaded appeal, though admittedly in need of further complexity.  From The Marche.

2008 Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily (92, Drink now-2014)

This blend of Frappato (40%) and Nero d'Avola (60%) displays excellent definition in its gingerbread, sweet spices, blueberries and flowers.  It continues onto the palate with beautifully articulated freshness, integrated tannins, multidimensional texture and a thirty second finish.  A standout.

2009 Tormaresca Neprica, Puglia (87, Drink now-2013)

The 2009 Neprica is a blend of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  This remains reasonably focused and well within itself, with a monolithic profile of blue and black fruits and an underlying nuance of lavender.  I set this aside for a while hoping that time would allow the juice to show additional flavor dimension, although its score reflects its inability to do so.

2006 Cantina Barbera Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, Sicily (90, Drink now-2014)

Displaying a good deal of complexity and potential is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, which is captivating in its expression of fresh herbs, flowers, licorice and understated fruit.  Its sense of structure creeps up on the finish, where things firm up considerably.  With no hard edges and a deep well of dark fruit as well as gorgeous texture and poise, this is an awesome value in Cabernet Sauvignon.  Bravo!

2007 Uccelliera Rapace, Tuscany (92+, Drink 2012-2017+)

The 2007 Rapace explodes from the glass with aromatics redolent of pumpkin spice, cinnamon, perfectly ripe blueberries, and dark cherries.  It is beautifully focused with pointed fruit, a sumptuous richness and refined tannins.  This lengthy effort has a long, bright future.  Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

2008 Torcicoda Tormaresca Primitivo, Puglia (89, Drink now-2013)

This spicy Primitivo is laced with notes of black pepper and plump fruit, with a streak of damp earth that keeps the rich dark fruit in check.  A spicy, savory, well-endowed Primitivo, I find it impossible to resist a second sip!

2005 Bussola Amarone, Veneto (91, Drink 2012-2017)

Brownie batter, roasted herbs, a port-like texture, as well as spices emerge from the 2005 Bussola Amarone, an enormously endowed red also possessed of plenty of structure and polish despite the expansive scope and remarkable richness.  This is a decadent, hedonistic delight for the senses.

New Zealand

2009 Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir, "Roaring Meg," Central Otago (88, Drink now-2013)

The 2009 Roaring Meg shows pretty, perfumed aromas that lead to a soft, ingratiating, primary wine laced with black cherries and plum preserves in a soft, yielding style.  The integrated, supple tannins and primary character of the wine suggest that this will be a short lived though pleasure-bent effort.  Just a touch flabby and smudged, but a fine effort.

2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago (90, Drink now-2014)

More floral, complex, and stylish is the 2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn, with classic varietal aromas of unwashed feet and berry fruit as well as a satellite note of mint that translates onto the palate as well.  This evolves beautifully in the glass, developing earthy nuances and fleshing out considerably with time.

Oregon

2008 Montinore Pinot Noir, "Estate Reserve," Willamette Valley (86, Drink now-2013)

The 2008 Estate Reserve is an understated, elegant offering that evokes red berries, minerals, and spices. Considering the vintage, this is a shade underfruited and disappointing in its clipped finish.  I rarely find this producer exciting, and at times their wines fall short of competence.

2009 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir, "Les Cousins," Willamette Valley (92, Drink now-2014)

An insane value and one of the brightest spots of the afternoon was this sexy, captivating "Les Cousins," a juicy, complete wine endowed with bright effusive berry fruit, spring flowers, a texture that is pure silk, and lots of complexity.  This shows both power and finesse, as well as enough aromatic nuance to keep the intellect as well as the senses engaged.  One of the great values in Oregonian Pinot Noir.

Bordeaux

2008 Chateau Patache d'Aux, Medoc (84, Drink now-2012)

This red smells and tastes underfruited and overoaked, with harsh tannins and obvious, intrusive herbaceousness severely compromising balance as well as drinkability.  With a hard, austere core, this is simply not fun to drink.

2008 Chateau Laplagnotte-Bellevue, St. Emilion (86, Drink now-2013)

Somewhat riper and more appealing than some others in this lineup, this Merlot-dominated St. Emilion shows greater fullness of flavor, with chocolate, herbs and dark cherry fruit intermixed with subtle oak tones.  Nicely balanced.

2008 Chateau Beau-Site, St. Estephe (91, Drink 2013-2017)

Far and away the most complete wine of the bunch is the 2008 Beau-Site, with intense, lifted aromatics that evoke violets, espresso roast, spice, and blackberries.  A complex, dense, well-endowed St. Estephe, this should put on some weight on the mid-palate with bottle age and will offer prime, pleasurable drinking after 2013.  This is an excellent feat of winemaking from this producer, and a commendable effort from a challenging vintage.

2009 Chateau St. Didier-Parnac, Cahors (87, Drink now-2012)

This Cahors (Malbec) displays expressive red fruits and coffee in its bouquet, leading to a rounded, polished texture up front and a finish revealing a medium level of sandy tannins.  A touch rustic in the end, but it works for me.

Australia

2008 John Duval Wines Shiraz, "Entity," Barossa Valley (91+, Drink now-2015+)

Amply proportioned, rich, and sumptuous, the 2008 Entity entices with underpinnings of apple cider and coffee that weave through the explosive and irresistible blanket of dark fruit.  Things remained focused throughout, with filigree tannins and a tart, puckering quality to the finish.  Textbook, reference point Barossa Shiraz.

2007 John Duval Wines Red Blend, "Plexus," Barossa Valley (88, Drink now-2014)

The 2007 Plexus is another successful wine, though it lacks the tiered, multidimensional personality of the 2008 Entity.  It is also darker and restrained in its expression of tar, earth and blackberries, with a soft core of dark fruit and earth enshrouded in supple, integrated tannins.  This is a slightly austere, brooding style, but it follows form from start to finish and is pretty convincing in its seductive, almost mysterious personality.

2008 Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

95               Drink 2015-2035               $140, QPR index - .68

The blend for the 2008 Monte Bello is about three fourths Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Merlot, so there is uncharacteristically no Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc in this year's version of this reference-point California Cabernet Sauvignon.  A pure, completely authoritative array of lifted aromatics emerge from the 2008 with an opulence that reflects the super low-yielding nature of the vintage and resulting concentration of its best wines.  Tobacco, flowers, copious quantities of sensual black fruits, and a kiss of oak come together in a seamless, totally complete and compelling expression of Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon, revealing an additional note of tar in the wake of a sweeping, convincing finish.  The high level of firm tannins and the sheer density that manifest in the glass suggest that this will need another 4-6 years to show to full advantage, and thenceforth should effortlessly age for decades.

The famed Monte Bello vineyard is situated in the eastern half of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, and reaches an altitude of 2,600 feet while enjoying a southeastern exposure.  The 2008 vintage is the 39th year that iconic winemaker Paul Draper has spun vinous silk from grapes grown in the cool-climate Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, located about 50 miles south of San Francisco.  This tasting was my first chance to taste a Monte Bello, as a recent attempt to acquire a few bottles of the 1992, 1994, and 1996 unfortunately fell through.  While Draper is renowned for his hands-on approach in the vineyards and noninterventionist approach to vinification, the 2008 vintage made excessive pruning and green-harvesting unnecessary as spring frosts caused pervasively irregular flowering, with yields down close to 50% in many areas.  What followed was a relatively cool sumer with few heat spikes, conditions that allowed grapes the luxury of long hang-times, full phenolic development, and potentially excellent balance between sugars, acidity, and tannin.  I was positively giddy waiting for this bottle to come around in my decanter!  My overall impression here is one of awe in terms of the purity and unmanipulated character encapsulated in this bottling, although today the wine is excruciatingly young and will prove far more layered in its fruit, not to mention more alluring from a textural standpoint in the future.  In short, the Monte Bello wines will require almost interminable patience if one wishes to drink them at full maturity.  The Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (also from the Monte Bello vineyard, but produced from grapes not chosen for the estate's top wine) is an excellent alternative, as it tends to show fabulously well out of bottle, possesses a more extroverted, user-friendly profile, and can be had for around $45.  Reviews for the 2008 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, the 2009 Ridge Geyserville (a blend of mostly Zindandel from the northern Sonoma Coast), and the 2009 Chardonnay Monte Bello will be available in the coming weeks.

2008 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Washington

90               Drink now-2015               $25, QPR idnex - 3.6

The serious, cerebral 2008 Amavi Cabernet Sauvignon wafts charcoal and cedar as well as creme de cassis and black currants.  Like the 2006 and 2007, it shows nice mid-palate intensity, a firm, grippy mouthfeel as well as a dramatically expansive elegance that may well be called the hallmark of the Amavi style.  Only slightly off pace of the 2007, this is also decidedly more forward, with chewy tannins, admirable concentration and remarkable purity.  This St-Julien look-alike can be enjoyed now and over the next 4-5 years.  Readers who possess bottles of the estate's Cabernet Sauvignon should consider opening them far in advance of consumption, as they tend to initially appear austere and distanced before blossoming and evolving beautifully over the course of an evening.

2009 Cameron Hughes lot 241, GSM blend, Arroyo Seco, Monterey, California

87               Drink now-2014               $13, QPR index - 6.7

Lot 241 contains aromatic notions of fresh thyme, soil, cherries, and ground black pepper, which lead to a palate of cherry and plum fruit along with details of minerals, soil, and spices.  With a deliciously savage personality, this tasty, savory effort can be drunk over the next three years.

Food and Wine Meal #4

First: Tuscan Antipasti Plate, with Prosciutto, Hot Capicolla, olive and anchovy pate, maplebrook buffalo mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano with aceto balsamico

2008 Renato Ratti Dolcetto d'Alba Colombe, Piedmont, Italy, $20 (85-87 points)
A swarthy, primary wine is the 2008 Ratti Colombe, showcasing front-loaded notes of blackberry, cinnamon, and iron as well as a touch of cinnamon.  Simply delicious, and as unpretentious and versatile as it gets.

Second: Spinach Lasagna Bolognese

2006 Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, $23 (90-92+ points)

This is the fourth time I've had this wine, and it has shown beautifully on each occasion.  This shows understated yet authoritative flavors of dark plums, marker ink, forest floor and licorice that gain complexity and depth with time in the glass.  Simply stated, this tastes like the bottled essence of Tuscany.

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco, "Vigneto Cichin," Nieve, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, $50 (92-93 points)

A ripe, caressing style, the 2004 Barbaresco "Cichin" is redolent of flowers, spices, super-ripe dark fruit, vanilla, and coffee.  An undeniably modern and highly extracted wine, this remains sleek and tight despite the expansive richness and is remarkable for its scope as well as execution.  A long finish of berry and mocha leaves a flattering impression.  Simply gorgeous.

2006 Betts and Scholl Grenache, "The Chronique," Barossa Valley, Australia

92               Drink now-2016+               $35, QPR index - 2.6

The 2006 Grenache "The Chronique" announces its presence with a bouquet of forest floor, sage, black cherries and blueberries along with a note of licorice that emerges with time in the glass.  It explodes onto the palate with excellent definition in its warm, supple fruit, while additional herbal and spicy underpinnings add complexity.  This is ripe and intense, but very well executed.

2001 Kiona Merlot, "Nice Legs," Washington State

87               Drink now-2013               $13, QPR index - 6.7

An unexpected surprise is the freshness and definition present in the 2001 Merlot "Nice Legs," a crimson-colored red imbued with the high-pitched essence of wild strawberries and red raspberries as well as hints of toasty oak and herbs.  This is simply delicious with a decided elegance to the ripe fruit.  A touch of alcohol was discernible at the outset, but dissipated with air.

2010 Matteo Correggia Arneis, Roero, Piedmont, Italy

88               Drink now-2013               $17, QPR index - 5.2

While not as memorably radiant or exotically floral as the 2009, the 2010 Arneis is nevertheless a successful wine from this reference-point Roero producer.  It displays a pleasant bouquet of bitter almond and pear that promises and then delivers a mouthful of fresh, pure, orchard fruit-laden Arneis.  

The late Matteo Correggia's memory is now carried on by his wife Ornella, who runs this highly consistent and reliable estate.  They are an excellent place to start what will certainly prove a fruitful exploration of the Arneis grape, an ancient and aromatically compelling variety grown almost exclusively in the rugged hills of the Roero, northwest of the Langhe in Piedmont.