Kris and Mike put on one hell of a tasting Monday afternoon, solidifying their reputation for possessing the best portfolio of high quality Italian wines to be found in Vermont. While their Baroli and Brunelli were showstoppers, other Italian wine regions had the opportunity to display their less-familiar vinous riches, with a number of southern reaches, especially Sicily and Puglia, showing remarkably well. Pinot Noir hailing from the Willamette Valley and Central Otago were equally compelling, while Bordeaux's producers and offerings were received less enthusiastically, though, to be fair, several bottles offered were from the problematic and challenging 2008 vintage. Toward the end of our marathon session, a couple Australian delights, a varietal Shiraz and a southern Rhone-style blend, were thrown in gratis. The VWM tasting facility was warm and inviting, with the requisite glassware, cleanliness and atmosphere conducive to professional tasting. As far as Kris and Mike are concerned, their collective passion, knowledge and patience lie beyond reproach, nor will their generosity be forgotten.
Italy
2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (Score n/a, Drink n/a)
Out of the gate this appears penetratingly floral, with somewhat oxidized ripe fruit and an exotic, almost flamboyant demeanor. After decanting, volatile and unpleasant aromatics become more pronounced. A bad bottle alone isn't enough for censure, but it merits mentioning that bottle variation has been a problem at this address in the past.
2005 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, Piedmont (94, Drink 2012-2020)
A lovely, endearing Monprivato is the 2005, which shows a nose of sweet raspberries, herbs and licorice. On the palate its youth and primary character are evident, with plenty of elegant fruit in its lean, compressed profile flanked by voluptuous tannins that firm considerably on the back end. This is as traditional as Barolo gets, and it is Mascarello so it needs time.
2003 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (91, Drink 2011-2014)
Already at full maturity, the 2003 proves more reticent than the 2005, with reluctant aromatics redolent of baking spices, rich plum jam, and new French oak. This lacks the aromatic freshness and vigor of most outstanding Brunellos, but it is my opinion that its swarthy, opulent fruit and sexy, seductive personality win the day.
2005 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany (89, Drink 2013-2017)
The 2005 shows even more oak than the 2003, with a treble octave of bright red cherries, white chocolate and wet autumn leaves. On the palate, the wine shows notable freshness much in keeping with the vintage, but it seems to lose focus around the midpalate where a disjointed, awkward transition to the finish proves penalizing. My experience with this producer makes me believe a year or so of bottle age should help this young Brunello better integrate its oak, and I'd bet this will show more advantageously in the future.
2009 Fattoria di Magliano, "Heba,"Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany (87, Drink now-2013)
A widely available and affordable bargain, this Sangiovese shows aromas and flavors of hard candy, cherry fruit rollup and balsamic. Its low acidity isn't necessarily out of place given the warm, coastal microclimate of Scansano, this fat, unctuously textured style is, admittedly, not what I look for in Sangiovese.
2010 La Mondianese Grignolino, Piedmont (88, Drink now-2012)
This distinctive and delicious Piedmontese red is imbued with fennel, anise and red berry character as well as lovely piquancy and an endearing personality. This is admirable for its bright, fresh flavors and purity of fruit. No oak.
2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso, Umbria (82?, Drink now-2012)
The 2008 Fongoli Montefalco Rosse, from Umbria, possesses a blowsy, smudged bouquet that leads to a disjointed and unfocused attack. I hope this is a bad bottle?
2009 Velenosi Lacrima di Morro, Marche (87, Drink now-2013)
This easygoing, harmonious red shows lots of fruit and big oak in a highly distinctive style that remains well-balanced through the finish. Very appealing for its singularity and front-loaded appeal, though admittedly in need of further complexity. From The Marche.
2008 Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily (92, Drink now-2014)
This blend of Frappato (40%) and Nero d'Avola (60%) displays excellent definition in its gingerbread, sweet spices, blueberries and flowers. It continues onto the palate with beautifully articulated freshness, integrated tannins, multidimensional texture and a thirty second finish. A standout.
2009 Tormaresca Neprica, Puglia (87, Drink now-2013)
The 2009 Neprica is a blend of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This remains reasonably focused and well within itself, with a monolithic profile of blue and black fruits and an underlying nuance of lavender. I set this aside for a while hoping that time would allow the juice to show additional flavor dimension, although its score reflects its inability to do so.
2006 Cantina Barbera Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, Sicily (90, Drink now-2014)
Displaying a good deal of complexity and potential is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon La Vota, which is captivating in its expression of fresh herbs, flowers, licorice and understated fruit. Its sense of structure creeps up on the finish, where things firm up considerably. With no hard edges and a deep well of dark fruit as well as gorgeous texture and poise, this is an awesome value in Cabernet Sauvignon. Bravo!
2007 Uccelliera Rapace, Tuscany (92+, Drink 2012-2017+)
The 2007 Rapace explodes from the glass with aromatics redolent of pumpkin spice, cinnamon, perfectly ripe blueberries, and dark cherries. It is beautifully focused with pointed fruit, a sumptuous richness and refined tannins. This lengthy effort has a long, bright future. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
2008 Torcicoda Tormaresca Primitivo, Puglia (89, Drink now-2013)
This spicy Primitivo is laced with notes of black pepper and plump fruit, with a streak of damp earth that keeps the rich dark fruit in check. A spicy, savory, well-endowed Primitivo, I find it impossible to resist a second sip!
2005 Bussola Amarone, Veneto (91, Drink 2012-2017)
Brownie batter, roasted herbs, a port-like texture, as well as spices emerge from the 2005 Bussola Amarone, an enormously endowed red also possessed of plenty of structure and polish despite the expansive scope and remarkable richness. This is a decadent, hedonistic delight for the senses.
New Zealand
2009 Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir, "Roaring Meg," Central Otago (88, Drink now-2013)
The 2009 Roaring Meg shows pretty, perfumed aromas that lead to a soft, ingratiating, primary wine laced with black cherries and plum preserves in a soft, yielding style. The integrated, supple tannins and primary character of the wine suggest that this will be a short lived though pleasure-bent effort. Just a touch flabby and smudged, but a fine effort.
2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago (90, Drink now-2014)
More floral, complex, and stylish is the 2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn, with classic varietal aromas of unwashed feet and berry fruit as well as a satellite note of mint that translates onto the palate as well. This evolves beautifully in the glass, developing earthy nuances and fleshing out considerably with time.
Oregon
2008 Montinore Pinot Noir, "Estate Reserve," Willamette Valley (86, Drink now-2013)
The 2008 Estate Reserve is an understated, elegant offering that evokes red berries, minerals, and spices. Considering the vintage, this is a shade underfruited and disappointing in its clipped finish. I rarely find this producer exciting, and at times their wines fall short of competence.
2009 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir, "Les Cousins," Willamette Valley (92, Drink now-2014)
An insane value and one of the brightest spots of the afternoon was this sexy, captivating "Les Cousins," a juicy, complete wine endowed with bright effusive berry fruit, spring flowers, a texture that is pure silk, and lots of complexity. This shows both power and finesse, as well as enough aromatic nuance to keep the intellect as well as the senses engaged. One of the great values in Oregonian Pinot Noir.
Bordeaux
2008 Chateau Patache d'Aux, Medoc (84, Drink now-2012)
This red smells and tastes underfruited and overoaked, with harsh tannins and obvious, intrusive herbaceousness severely compromising balance as well as drinkability. With a hard, austere core, this is simply not fun to drink.
2008 Chateau Laplagnotte-Bellevue, St. Emilion (86, Drink now-2013)
Somewhat riper and more appealing than some others in this lineup, this Merlot-dominated St. Emilion shows greater fullness of flavor, with chocolate, herbs and dark cherry fruit intermixed with subtle oak tones. Nicely balanced.
2008 Chateau Beau-Site, St. Estephe (91, Drink 2013-2017)
Far and away the most complete wine of the bunch is the 2008 Beau-Site, with intense, lifted aromatics that evoke violets, espresso roast, spice, and blackberries. A complex, dense, well-endowed St. Estephe, this should put on some weight on the mid-palate with bottle age and will offer prime, pleasurable drinking after 2013. This is an excellent feat of winemaking from this producer, and a commendable effort from a challenging vintage.
2009 Chateau St. Didier-Parnac, Cahors (87, Drink now-2012)
This Cahors (Malbec) displays expressive red fruits and coffee in its bouquet, leading to a rounded, polished texture up front and a finish revealing a medium level of sandy tannins. A touch rustic in the end, but it works for me.
Australia
2008 John Duval Wines Shiraz, "Entity," Barossa Valley (91+, Drink now-2015+)
Amply proportioned, rich, and sumptuous, the 2008 Entity entices with underpinnings of apple cider and coffee that weave through the explosive and irresistible blanket of dark fruit. Things remained focused throughout, with filigree tannins and a tart, puckering quality to the finish. Textbook, reference point Barossa Shiraz.
2007 John Duval Wines Red Blend, "Plexus," Barossa Valley (88, Drink now-2014)
The 2007 Plexus is another successful wine, though it lacks the tiered, multidimensional personality of the 2008 Entity. It is also darker and restrained in its expression of tar, earth and blackberries, with a soft core of dark fruit and earth enshrouded in supple, integrated tannins. This is a slightly austere, brooding style, but it follows form from start to finish and is pretty convincing in its seductive, almost mysterious personality.
Here is a recent interview I gave to Winenabber.com CEO Peter Rothschild discussing the wine program at Jessica's Restaurant. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4M_kNgV2mw
A note from the author:
2 August 2012: I've signed on to author a blog for wine retailer Winenabber.com. Check it out at nabberjabber.wordpress.com
Closing in on one year blogging with you, and things are astir. I must begin by graciously thanking each of you for allowing my thoughts and reflections on wine to be a small part of your lives. I truly consider your willingness to value and trust my own impressions a humbling privilege.
For those new to my writing (and I'm enormously excited by the sheer quantity of new readers!), I would like to state simply the foundational belief that informs every facet of my professional career: If you choose to approach wine with an open mind it will provide you unique and genuinely rare beauty and enrich your life.
My hope with this blog is that I nudge you further into a life with wine and that the wines I recommend provide you ongoing pleasure. I believe strongly that living with wine is much better than living without it. With that said, when I began my professional career several years ago it was incredible how much I valued what other wine writers had to say about the wines I drank. I couldn't have imagined how quickly I would grow to so deeply cherish and nurture and passionately express my own feelings.
If you've read this far and feel worried that you can't know anything, that your palate lacks sophistication and precision, or that you should have known by now if you had a passion for the juice, let me say this: forget that forever. Trust your palate and your own impressions. Seriously. Lose the "know-nothing" doctrine and suddenly, instantly, new and astonishingly authentic pleasures will appear before you. This is True. Wine has enriched the life of literally every person I know who hasn't arbitrarily pushed back at it.
How can anyone change directions so quickly? My advice is to habitualize clear mindedness and be attentive. I call this "productive concentration." "Productive" because one is intellectually rewarded for patience and focused reflection. If we trust our own impressions and are willing to remain honest with ourselves, and if new experiences force us to rethink or even abandon our previous positions , and if our views and beliefs remain fluid and syncretic and difficult to neatly articulate, then I say all the better. Not to mention how much more interesting.
In a sense, experiencing and enjoying great wine is much easier than this approach may initially appear. After all, drinking wine is simple. Wine enters our glass, our nostrils, our mouth, our belly. And, hopefully, this sequence is remarkably enjoyable and merits much repeating. But inside of each of us is a certain place, some deepest part of our being, a part which no other animal that has ever lived on this planet has possessed, an indescribably deep and meaningful well where our most ineffably beautiful humanity finds repose. And wine goes there, too.
A dear friend posed the question recently, "Can you put into words the experience of tasting great wine?" I thought about the question for a minute, and thought about how my favorite wines have made me feel. I responded, "Experiencing great wine is like scratching some gargantuan itch you never knew you had." Wine expands our consciousness, and, often, dramatically alters our perception of what was already there. Wine asks us to spend time with ourselves, know ourselves, makes us feel a certain way, and gives us something beautiful to reflect on.
I am certain that the best approach to both life and one's craft is to talk to people, listen intently, then reflect and figure out how to open new and better avenues of meaningful communication. There is no objective guide to wine writing. Regardless, one finds one's way. And, I think, better is the way that most often leads oneself and others toward distinctive deliciousness, authentic and meaningful experiences, and a heightened awareness of beauty in our world.
In the end, there are only two questions one needs to entertain in evaluating a particular wine. (The third is actually unessential but, I find, meaningful):
1) Is this wine beautiful?
2) How does this wine make me feel?
3) What is being said and how is it being said?
Our world is crowded and moves quickly. Wine begs for another approach. Wine is inherently needy: it admittedly asks much of us. To appreciate wine, we must choose participation over spectation. The wine lover's life is a journey that slowly and unexpectedly reveals an ever greater awareness of what really speaks to us as a human being. That something is one's own sense of and search for the beautiful that, I sincerely hope, increasingly quenches its thirst through this astonishingly splendid miracle of liquidity.
A special mention of thanks to family, friends and guests for their support and continued interest in the world of wine.
May your exploration of wine be pleasurable and your glass remain (at least) half full,
Jason Jacobeit
Scores - Scores are my subjective analysis of the inherent qualities of a wine with considerations made for vintage-specific typicity, overall balance, and, where applicable, ageability.
As for the numerical scores themselves, use this adumbrated guide as a suitable stand-in for objective precision:Below 80 Wines are flawed in some respect. Ultimately, these efforts will not merit recommendation.
80-84 A wine without overt technical flaws, but lacking distinctive or exciting aromas and flavors. Modern winemaking allows for an ocean of bulk wine production the results of which often fall within this range.85-89 Solidly constructed, varietally accurate and most importantly, delicious wine. These are usually terrific table wines and often define the sweet spot for value.
90-94 Engaging and complex, wines in this range are exceptionally balanced. Knockout juice.
95-100 Wines of impeccable harmony, precision and depth. The apotheosis of the art of winemaking, wines here are beautifully crafted, thrilling and emotional.
Pricing - prices provided in reviews are generally release prices unless dramatically altered. When the latter is the case, it will be specified.
Quality/Price Ratio (QPR) - The QPR index will be an excellent way to navigate a large number of reviews quickly and efficiently. That said, I strongly suggest that particular regions and, where further differention is possible, varietal wines and blends be evaluated separately and on their own terms.For example, many Spanish regions produce remarkably concentrated grapes from old vines that are consistently vinified into tasty, value-priced wines. The QPR range for these wines will, therefore, be relatively high. Contrastingly, Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont are more difficult to consistently ripen and vinify, production is more stringently controlled and the wines, generally speaking, more internationally sought. It is therefore nearly impossible to find varietal Nebbiolo, whether Barolo, Barbaresco or declassified crop, that delivers outstanding quality at under $20. The Piedmontese QPR index will thus be lower relative to their previously sketched Spanish counterparts. In the end, initiated readers will make wise consumer choices based on a variety of factors, including an understanding of the broader contours of the wine market.
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Thanks Jason for your nice review, I am very happy that you liked La Vota!
ReplyDelete2006 was actually a difficult vintage, but it is aging quite well. 2007 is my fav so far, I hope we will be able to taste it together at Burlington Wine and Food next June!