89 Drink now-2014 $16, QPR index - 5.6
A perennial best buy is the varietal Blaufrankisch from the Carnuntum's Walter Glatzer, an organic producer whose wines seem to reflect an ever greater confidence in and awareness of the potential of his vineyards. In 2009, the pepper and earth-scented Blaufrankisch offers flavors of beef stock, leather, and darker fruits. There is remarkable distinctiveness, purity, and balance that make it simply impossible to resist a second sip! With air, the wine adds dimensions of cedar, licorice, and a more complex melange of spices. This is a producer who deserves every discerning consumer's ardent attention, as Glatzer's wines offer much sensual and intellectual satisfaction at exceedingly reasonable prices. Readers should be also sure to check out the estate's slender, attractively flowery whites as well as the terrific Zweigelt "Reidencuvee" bottling.
Here is a recent interview I gave to Winenabber.com CEO Peter Rothschild discussing the wine program at Jessica's Restaurant. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4M_kNgV2mw
A note from the author:
2 August 2012: I've signed on to author a blog for wine retailer Winenabber.com. Check it out at nabberjabber.wordpress.com
Closing in on one year blogging with you, and things are astir. I must begin by graciously thanking each of you for allowing my thoughts and reflections on wine to be a small part of your lives. I truly consider your willingness to value and trust my own impressions a humbling privilege.
For those new to my writing (and I'm enormously excited by the sheer quantity of new readers!), I would like to state simply the foundational belief that informs every facet of my professional career: If you choose to approach wine with an open mind it will provide you unique and genuinely rare beauty and enrich your life.
My hope with this blog is that I nudge you further into a life with wine and that the wines I recommend provide you ongoing pleasure. I believe strongly that living with wine is much better than living without it. With that said, when I began my professional career several years ago it was incredible how much I valued what other wine writers had to say about the wines I drank. I couldn't have imagined how quickly I would grow to so deeply cherish and nurture and passionately express my own feelings.
If you've read this far and feel worried that you can't know anything, that your palate lacks sophistication and precision, or that you should have known by now if you had a passion for the juice, let me say this: forget that forever. Trust your palate and your own impressions. Seriously. Lose the "know-nothing" doctrine and suddenly, instantly, new and astonishingly authentic pleasures will appear before you. This is True. Wine has enriched the life of literally every person I know who hasn't arbitrarily pushed back at it.
How can anyone change directions so quickly? My advice is to habitualize clear mindedness and be attentive. I call this "productive concentration." "Productive" because one is intellectually rewarded for patience and focused reflection. If we trust our own impressions and are willing to remain honest with ourselves, and if new experiences force us to rethink or even abandon our previous positions , and if our views and beliefs remain fluid and syncretic and difficult to neatly articulate, then I say all the better. Not to mention how much more interesting.
In a sense, experiencing and enjoying great wine is much easier than this approach may initially appear. After all, drinking wine is simple. Wine enters our glass, our nostrils, our mouth, our belly. And, hopefully, this sequence is remarkably enjoyable and merits much repeating. But inside of each of us is a certain place, some deepest part of our being, a part which no other animal that has ever lived on this planet has possessed, an indescribably deep and meaningful well where our most ineffably beautiful humanity finds repose. And wine goes there, too.
A dear friend posed the question recently, "Can you put into words the experience of tasting great wine?" I thought about the question for a minute, and thought about how my favorite wines have made me feel. I responded, "Experiencing great wine is like scratching some gargantuan itch you never knew you had." Wine expands our consciousness, and, often, dramatically alters our perception of what was already there. Wine asks us to spend time with ourselves, know ourselves, makes us feel a certain way, and gives us something beautiful to reflect on.
I am certain that the best approach to both life and one's craft is to talk to people, listen intently, then reflect and figure out how to open new and better avenues of meaningful communication. There is no objective guide to wine writing. Regardless, one finds one's way. And, I think, better is the way that most often leads oneself and others toward distinctive deliciousness, authentic and meaningful experiences, and a heightened awareness of beauty in our world.
In the end, there are only two questions one needs to entertain in evaluating a particular wine. (The third is actually unessential but, I find, meaningful):
1) Is this wine beautiful?
2) How does this wine make me feel?
3) What is being said and how is it being said?
Our world is crowded and moves quickly. Wine begs for another approach. Wine is inherently needy: it admittedly asks much of us. To appreciate wine, we must choose participation over spectation. The wine lover's life is a journey that slowly and unexpectedly reveals an ever greater awareness of what really speaks to us as a human being. That something is one's own sense of and search for the beautiful that, I sincerely hope, increasingly quenches its thirst through this astonishingly splendid miracle of liquidity.
A special mention of thanks to family, friends and guests for their support and continued interest in the world of wine.
May your exploration of wine be pleasurable and your glass remain (at least) half full,
Jason Jacobeit
Scores - Scores are my subjective analysis of the inherent qualities of a wine with considerations made for vintage-specific typicity, overall balance, and, where applicable, ageability.
As for the numerical scores themselves, use this adumbrated guide as a suitable stand-in for objective precision:Below 80 Wines are flawed in some respect. Ultimately, these efforts will not merit recommendation.
80-84 A wine without overt technical flaws, but lacking distinctive or exciting aromas and flavors. Modern winemaking allows for an ocean of bulk wine production the results of which often fall within this range.85-89 Solidly constructed, varietally accurate and most importantly, delicious wine. These are usually terrific table wines and often define the sweet spot for value.
90-94 Engaging and complex, wines in this range are exceptionally balanced. Knockout juice.
95-100 Wines of impeccable harmony, precision and depth. The apotheosis of the art of winemaking, wines here are beautifully crafted, thrilling and emotional.
Pricing - prices provided in reviews are generally release prices unless dramatically altered. When the latter is the case, it will be specified.
Quality/Price Ratio (QPR) - The QPR index will be an excellent way to navigate a large number of reviews quickly and efficiently. That said, I strongly suggest that particular regions and, where further differention is possible, varietal wines and blends be evaluated separately and on their own terms.For example, many Spanish regions produce remarkably concentrated grapes from old vines that are consistently vinified into tasty, value-priced wines. The QPR range for these wines will, therefore, be relatively high. Contrastingly, Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont are more difficult to consistently ripen and vinify, production is more stringently controlled and the wines, generally speaking, more internationally sought. It is therefore nearly impossible to find varietal Nebbiolo, whether Barolo, Barbaresco or declassified crop, that delivers outstanding quality at under $20. The Piedmontese QPR index will thus be lower relative to their previously sketched Spanish counterparts. In the end, initiated readers will make wise consumer choices based on a variety of factors, including an understanding of the broader contours of the wine market.
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